Charging your batteries.
Article by Jay Smith.
Photos by MA Staff.
Video by Matt Ruddick.
Read the full article in the September 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Safely charging and storing LiPo batteries is an important requirement of electric-powered flight. LiPo batteries rose to popularity with their ability to provide longer flight times with less weight as compared to the NiMh and Ni-Cd batteries they have largely replaced.

The saying “with great power comes great responsibility” would be a fitting description when describing LiPo batteries, but understanding the basics of this battery technology and having a working understanding of your charger will go a long way.

Chargers

It should come as no surprise that if you are going to use LiPo batteries to power your electric aircraft, then a charger designed to charge LiPo batteries is required. Although some RTF aircraft come with basic chargers, we are going to focus on stand-alone chargers that offer more flexibility, and functionality.

When it comes time to purchase your first charger, or possibly a replacement charger, there are many things to consider such as input power, output power (in watts), capability to charge single or multiple battery packs at the same time, number of cells supported, balancing, and computer connectivity (for tracking and updates).

Selecting a charger with an LCD screen is also a good idea so that you can easy and accurately change charging parameters and monitor the charge cycle and the voltage of individual cells.

Input Power

Chargers receive power from alternating current (AC), direct current (DC), or have the option to use either one. An AC charger has a built-in power supply allowing it to be plugged into a wall socket, making it handy to charge batteries anywhere there is an available outlet.

DC power comes by either plugging the charger into a power supply or by connecting it to a battery. This is convenient for charging at the field or at events when electrical outlets are unavailable.

Output Power

Chargers are typically rated in watts. Watts are calculated by multiplying the voltage and the amps. A fully charged 2,200 mAh 3S LiPo battery would have a voltage of 12.6. Charging at 1C, it would draw roughly 28 watts of power (12.6 volts x 2.2 amps = 27.72 watts). As you might expect, charging at a higher C rating will increase the required wattage needed from the charger.

Single and Multiport Chargers

Multiport chargers allow two or more batteries to be connected to the charger and simultaneously charged. The only drawback is that the separate ports on the charger split the available wattage, so a four-port charger might only support 50 watts per channel versus 200 watts that might be supported on a single charger.

The Graupner Polaron is a two-port charger with each port supporting 400 watts. This DC charger can be purchased with a matching power supply. Its form factor doesn’t take up much space on the bench.

The Hitec X1 Touch AC/DC charger is a 55-watt touch screen charger that is capable of charging one- to six-cell LiPo batteries.

Balancing

Balance charging LiPo batteries is essential to getting the most from your batteries by ensuring that the voltage of each individual cell in a pack is equal. Balancing helps prevent single cells from being overcharged or discharged, which can damage the cell and has the potential to cause a fire.

The balancing process will typically discharge the higher-voltage cells to match the lower-voltage cells during the charging process. Balancing can also be done with stand-alone products such as the Astro Flight Blinky LiPo Battery Balancer.

LiPo batteries composed of two cells or more could utilize one of four balancing connectors: XH, EH, HP/PQ, and TP. Some chargers include one or more balancing boards and some have all four on one board. If your charger doesn’t have the balancing connector to match your batteries, you can probably purchase one.

The Hitec universal balancing board, supplied with the X1 Touch, supports all four types of balancing plugs. Other chargers might come with up to four smaller boards.

Depending on the different connectors on your batteries, you may want a charge lead that can support several, such as the one pictured, as opposed to a separate charge lead for each connector.

The XH balance connector has become the most common connector found on batteries in the US. E-flite and ElectriFly are examples of brands that use this plug.

Connectors

Beyond the balancing connector, most batteries have a primary connection used to connect the battery to your aircraft and to the charger. This consists of a positive and negative wire with a connector that is usually preinstalled on the battery when purchased. Some batteries come without a connector, allowing the end user choose the connector. (To learn more about connectors, see page 33 of the July 2015 issue of Model Aviation.)

Bullet connectors with one positive and one negative lead are used to connect the charge lead to the charger. On the other end could be a pair of bare wires (requiring that a connector be installed), a preinstalled connector, or multiple connectors.

Read the Instructions

Before using a charger or charging a battery for the first time, thoroughly read the instructions. On a charger with an LCD screen, take time to navigate the menus and learn how to change the charge setting. If the charger includes a USB connection, check online or with the manufacturer to see if there are any firmware or software updates. If so, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and update the charger.

Visually inspect the charger to ensure that all of the leads, connectors, fans, etc. are serviceable and working.

Thunder Power provides the following instructions before installing a connector or charging a battery for the first time:

1. Make a visual inspection of the pack. Check for any damaged leads, connectors, broken or cracked shrink covering, puffiness, or other irregularities.

2. Before installing or changing the connector, check the pack’s voltage using a digital voltmeter (not your charger). All new packs ship at approximately 3.8 volts to 3.9 volts per cell. For example: A 2S pack should read approximately 7.60 volts to 7.8 volts; a 3S pack should read approximately 11.40 volts to 11.7 volts.

3. If you find any damage to the pack or leads, or the voltage is significantly less for your pack than specified, do not attempt to charge or use the battery. Contact Thunder Power [or your battery’s manufacturer] directly as soon as possible.

Storage Charge

If storing a LiPo battery longer than one week, batteries should be stored at 3.8 to 3.9 volts per cell (approximately 50% charged). Storing a LiPo battery fully charged can affect its capacity loss over time. A LiPo battery charged to 4.2 volts per cell and then left on the shelf at room temperature will lose roughly 20% of its capacity in two or three years. Store the same battery at the optimum storage voltage and put it in the refrigerator and it will take approximately 10 years to lose 20% of its capacity.

Many chargers on the market today have a built-in storage charge/discharge function. Chose this option, input the battery parameters, and let the charger do all of the work!

Charge Rate

To get the most from your batteries, manufacturers recommend charging at 1C, even if the battery states it can be charged at 3C or even 5C. Charging at a higher rate throughout the life of a battery will affect the number of cycles you are able to get from the battery.

Think of your charge rate as similar to shipping a package. To get your package faster than standard shipping has a cost associated with it—namely money. The same goes for your batteries. Charging them at higher than 1C will allow the charge process to complete faster; however, it is at the cost of reducing the number of cycles that the battery will provide throughout its serviceable life.

Safely Charging Batteries

The two most common instances of having a LiPo battery vent or catch fire is arguably during the charging process or resulting from a crash. In the case of charging the battery, you can further protect yourself by never charging batteries unattended, charging batteries in an isolated area away from flammable materials, and using some type of device or container that will encompass the flames if a battery were to vent.

Commercially available products include the LiPo Sack, LiPo Bunker, an ammunition can, or concrete blocks. Any device that you use should contain the flames while allowing the gases to vent. In the case of the ammunition can, you can drill small holes in the top to allow venting. If the LiPo is unable to vent, it could cause an explosion.

It is important to have a nearby smoke detector, sand, and fire extinguisher. The detector will alert you if a pack begins to vent. The sand should be used to extinguish a LiPo fire and the extinguisher is to put out any other material that might ignite because of the fire. Household fire extinguishers are not rated for use on a LiPo fire. Class D fire extinguishers can be used for a LiPo battery fire, but they are costly.

Designed by Mark Wood, the LipoSack was released in 2006 as a means to charge, store, and transport LiPo batteries.

Conclusion

Advancements in LiPo batteries have made it possible to power aircraft from ultra-micro-size to Giant Scale models. Having a basic understanding of the batteries and the chargers used will go a long way toward ensuring the safe use of LiPo technology so you can benefit from lighter batteries and longer flight times.

I want to thank David Buxton, Tony Stillman, Thunder Power RC, and Hitec USA for their assistance with this article.

Sources

LiPo Battery Basics (Part 1)
www.ModelAviation.com/lipo1

LiPo Battery Basics (Part 2)
www.ModelAviation.com/lipo2

Tony Stillman
(765) 287-1256, ext. 230
tonys@modelaircraft.org

Thunder Power RC
(702) 228-8883
www.thunderpowerrc.com

Hitec USA
(858) 748-6948
http://hitecrcd.com

Written by Andrew Griffith
Two solidly performing models that come together for aerotowing
Abridged product review and video
Featured in the September 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

RobinS 50 E Specifications

Model type: Electric sport scale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate
Wingspan: 69 inches
Wing area: 841 square inches
Length: 56.6 inches
Airfoil: Semisymmetrical
Radio: Six channel minimum (seven with glider tow release)
Power system: 1,000-plus-watt brushless motor; 70-amp ESC; 6S LiPo battery
Construction: Laser-cut balsa and light plywood
Covering/finish: Oracover film covered available in two trim schemes; painted cowl and wheel pants
Street price: $429.99
Wing loading: 25.2 ounces per square foot
Weight: 9 pounds; 4 ounces (with 6S flight battery)

RobinS 50 E Pluses

• Great scale looks with two attractive trim schemes.
• Includes radio switched lighting kit and a glider tow release.
• Enjoyable sport model that will do an impressive array of aerobatics.
• Transports on the main landing gear.

L-13 Blanik Glider Specifications

Model type: Scale aerobatic glider
Skill level: Intermediate
Wingspan: 130.7 inches
Wing area: 1,248 square inches
Length: 66.9 inches
Airfoil: Semisymmetrical
Radio: Six-channel minimum, seven for aerotowing
Construction: Laser-cut balsa and light plywood with fiberglass fuselage
Covering/finish: Oracover covering on the wings and tail surfaces with a painted fiberglass fuselage
Street price: $599.99
Wing loading: 8.9 ounces per square foot
Weight: 11 pounds, 13 ounces

L-13 Blanik Glider Pluses

• Distinctive-looking Red Bull color scheme.
• High-quality fiberglass fuselage.
• Fun to fly and nicely aerobatic.
• Includes flaps for landing in smaller fields.

L-13 Blanik Glider Minuses

• The manual is mostly just photographs and lacks any control throw information.

Article and photos by Jerry Smith
In one or two evenings create a the perfect carrying case for a DJI Phantom.

Drones these days are all a buzz. We have eight in our local club and after watching them fly for a while I got interested. Being interested in photography this would enable me to take video and stills from a different viewpoint. So I bought a Phantom and began to fly it with that in mind. Absolutely marvelous the way it performed its magical flight. It rode around in the back of my van for a couple weeks when I began to think this little fella needs a home. A sudden stop might put it in unwanted flight into the back of the front seat. So I looked online to see what was available in the way of a case. What I found was very expensive. More than I wanted to pay.

It was then I began to think of building my own case and what it would look like. I wanted a case just large enough to house the Phantom and everything related to it such as extra batteries, a FlySight Black Pearl screen for FPV, sun shield, extra propellers, antennas and other related stuff. After carefully measuring the Phantom I determined a size of 15” x 15-1/2” x 9-1/2” high would be perfect for the case I had in mind. Now for the material and a trip to Home Depot. Here I found a 2’ x 4’ piece of ¼” plywood. Not the kind with the wild grain but furniture grade stuff with a good surface finish. While there I purchased a 1 x 4 x 6’ pine board also. This is all the wood material required to build my case. Not bad for a little over $13.

A Perfect Size

Back in the shop I laid out the parts required to build the case on the plywood. The sides, top and bottom, and the sides for the top. I figured I would have to make another trip to Home Depot for, more wood. When the layout was complete I couldn’t believe my eyes. Bingo!

That sheet of plywood was the perfect size for all the parts required with very, very little useable waste! The good lord was looking down on me. Of course you will need a table saw to cut out the parts. If you don’t have a saw seek out a friend who has one and have him help you. Once the parts are cut out you are ready for the build and of course, all excited. The Build This should not take you over one evening to build once the parts are cut out. Two or three if you are slow and want the enjoyment.

One of the things I did was to use screws and glue to hold it together. The screws helped hold things in place while the glue was curing allowing me to keep on working. Once the case is assembled fill all the cracks and dents with filler. Being a modeler I used balsa filler. I sanded it with 220 paper and readied it for painting. I painted mine white, to match the Phantom, using Glidden Interior Semi-gloss. Two coats did the job.

To restrain the top from opening over too far I used a metal beaded chain. I soldered a washer on each end and used a No. 2 servo screw to fasten it in place. You can also use a chain or even a chord for that purpose. I made the top separate. I could have made it all in one piece and sawed the top off. That would have been a perfect fit for top and base however, then it would have taken another piece of plywood. So I chose the less than perfect way of doing it for economy.

If your Phantom has the long landing gear it may not fit in the case. Mine has the ½” spacers and there is some extra room in the cover. Also this case was not designed with prop guards in mind. They do have prop guards that snap on and are easy to remove and can be stored in the case. I know you will enjoy building your home for the Phantom. It was a fun project for me. And the best part of all. When you get ready to fly your Phantom you will have everything you need all in the case.

Follow along with the pictures to see how I built my home for the Phantom. You will find it an easy build. My good friend Greg Roper designed the vinyl cut graphics for my case. It is available from him in red, blue, and black for $10 PP.

Bill of Materials

(1) ¼” 2’ x 4’ Handy Panel Sande plywood 2.
(1) 1 x 4 x 6’ no. 2 Whitewood Board 3.
(1) 4-7/8” Door Pull Galvanized 4.
(1) 1.5” non-removable Pin Hinge Brass 2pk 5.
(1) 2-3/4” x1-1/2” Chest Latch BB 2pk 6.
(24) #6 x ¾ Flat Head Wood Screw 7.4 0z White Glue 8.
(2) 1/4-20 X 1”Bolt 9.
(2) 1/4-20 Hex Nuts 10.
(2) ¼-20 Wing Nuts

Build Photos

Cut 4- 15” pieces from the 1 x 4 plank. Place a piece between the saw blade and the fence to get the proper measure for the width you need. You should be able to get 4 pieces from each 15” piece. You will need 12 pieces requiring 3- 15” pieces of plank. Cut 1 piece from the extra remaining 15” piece to be used for backing the hinges and chest latches.



Glue a ¾” sq. rail to both sides of a 15” x 15” ply piece using white glue. Make it flush with the edges and ends. Clamp them in place. Now fit in a ¾” sq. piece between the 2 outside pieces making them flush with the ends. Use clamps until cured. This will be the bottom. Now make another just as you did above for the top.



Stack the four 8” x 15” sides and tape them together. Locate and stack the 1-1/2” side for the top and tape them together. Layout the holes for the screws. Make them ½” from the side, 2” in from each end with one in the center. Drill a 7/32” hole at all locations. Because you are using a flat head screw you will have to countersink the holes for the screw head. I made mine a little deeper and used filler to make the hole flush. It’s up to you.



With the top and bottom rails installed and complete remove ¼” from each side of them. This will make the case size 15” x 15-1/2”. The 15-1/2” length will be the front and back of the case. Mark the base and top “front” and “back” as shown.



Locate the 4- 8” x 15” pieces of ply and glue a rail to one side of two of them only. Note: if you countersink the screw holes make sure they are on the outside. Align flush with sides and end. Apply glue and clamp in place. Next install 3 #6 flat head x ¾” wood screws in the pre-drilled holes. Remove the clamps. The screws will hold it in place until the glue cures.



Glue the two sides with the rails to the base. Align and install the screws in each of them. Be sure to glue these two sides on to the base where you removed the ¼”making it 15” across with the sides installed. Cut a scrap piece 15” long and tack it to the top ensuring 15” at the top end. Now glue on the side, align and install the screws. Glue on the other side using the same method. This completes the case base.



Locate the other 15” x 15” piece with rails. Hopefully you cut a ¼” off of each side. This will be the top. Glue on the sides and install the screws. Align the sides flush with the top and ends. Once completed it should match up with the base if you were accurate with your measurements.



Cut 4- 2” lengths of rail from the extra piece I told you to cut. Glue these in as shown in the photo. Locate them 3-1/2” on center in from each end. These will be backing for the screws in the hinge and chest latch. It will be necessary to cut down the thickness so they will fit flush with the sides of the top.



Cut 2- 1-1/2” pieces of rail and glue them in the front of the case as shown. Locate them 3-1/2” on center in from each end. These are backing for the screws in the chest latch.



Place the Phantom in the center of the case. Cut 8- 1” pieces from the rail stock. Glue a block in the case at the end of each landing gear 4 places. Leave a little clearance. Now glue a block on the side of the gear, near the end block 4 places. These blocks will keep the Phantom from wandering around in the case. Next drill a ¼” hole on each side of the gear in the center. Draw a centerline on a scrap piece of ply. Hold it under the ¼”holes sighting through them to see the centerline. Now match drill the ¼” holes into the scrap piece. This will be the hold down bar. Clean it up after holes are drilled. Install the ¼” bolts from the bottom, thread on a ¼” hex nut and tighten. Install hold down bar and thread on wing nuts.



I used 1”elastic wide bands and stapled them to the inside of the top to store my props. You can also staple bands along the sides to hold extra parts such as your FPV LCD, antennas, and other related and needed parts.



Finished case before painting with hardware installed.

Attend a free build webinar.
We talk you through how to plan and build your next model with foam.
November 5, 2015 11am EST

When most pilots think of building an model aircraft, balsa comes to mind. Foam is becoming a very popular building material of choice. Like balsa, foam is very affordable and easy to use.

Join us November 5, 2015 11am EST as we talk about how to build with foam. During the presentation we will also answer questions. Use the comments below to send us your questions now and then simply bookmark this page as we will stream the broadcast live right here!

Topics include:

• Comparing foam vs stick building
• How to work with foam
• Where to find plans
• Suggested building supplies and techniques

Written by Larry Kruse
Build your own park-ready delta wing
Free plans and bonus content
Read the full tutorial in the October 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Download Free Plans

Click here for full plans

Introduction

With simple and economical construction, the Avro Vulcan has a high enjoyment-to-cost ratio. Little time investment is needed to get it from a flat foam board to a good-flying model.

I was recently introduced to the world of flat-foam flying, and I’ve found it much like trying to eat just one potato chip. After constructing and flying two manufacturer-produced flat-foam airplanes (one Depron and the other foam board), I wondered what else might lend itself to a flat-foam presentation. Noting that many flat-foam jet-like models take their inspiration from modern-day fighter aircraft such as the F-22 Raptor, the F-15 Eagle, and the Russian MiG series, I began looking at an earlier era of jet aircraft—particularly those designed during the Cold War era, spurred along by the new nuclear age. Scanning the aircraft of that time brought me to the Avro Vulcan (now called the Hawker-Siddeley Vulcan) and its delta-wing planform that lends itself well to mid-fuselage motor placement in a pusher configuration.

Development of the full-scale Vulcan began back in 1947, shortly after World War II. The nuclear age required an entirely different platform for high-altitude delivery of nuclear ordnance. Built to mission specifications, the Vulcan went through several iterations before arriving at the “kinked-and-drooped” wing shape of the production version.

Using several three-views and photos of the prototype, I sketched a model that would fit a 99-foot wingspan onto two 30 x 20-inch sheets of 3/16-inch polystyrene foam core board. I used inexpensive paper-backed foam board rather than the more costly Depron. This generic 6mm foam board could be purchased for roughly $1 per sheet at Dollar Tree or craft-supply stores.

The airplane could be powered by an inexpensive outrunner motor and ESC, making it a low-cost project with a minimal time investment that still provides the illusion of a jet aircraft in the air.

Although the word scale and the phrase “flat-foam construction” are not mutually exclusive terms, their relationship can be described as loose at best. Flat foamies provide a scalelike impression in the air, achieved with a minimal investment of effort, time, and money.

Construction Sequence

Free plans for the Avro Vulcan can be downloaded at www.ModelAviation.com. Two sheets of 6mm foam board, a 2826/10 size motor (or similar), a 35-amp ESC, a 7 x 4 electric propeller, two 9-gram servos, a hot glue gun, and 5-minute epoxy will get you on your way to putting your own Vulcan in the air in no more than a couple of evenings. Any radio with elevon mixing capabilities will work as the control unit for the airplane.

All foam parts should be carefully cut out before assembly begins. A disposable #11 scalpel was the perfect tool for cutting cleanly through the foam board laminate, but a sharp #11 hobby knife blade will suffice.

Make sure that you make all cuts with the knife held vertically. If you happen to cut an edge that ends up slightly slanted, it can be quickly squared using a T-bar sander faced with medium-grade sandpaper. Two characteristics of foam board that make it attractive are that it cuts like butter, and if you mess up a piece, you can easily and economically cut another one!

Use the following sequenced assembly process as a checklist as you complete of your Avro Vulcan.

1) You will need to back each template with lightweight poster board. Any type of rubber cement or spray adhesive can be used to attach the patterns to the poster board.

After they are glued down, the final template shapes can be cut out with scissors and a hobby knife. After the templates have been made, trace all of the parts onto the foam board using a soft lead pencil. A pencil is recommended for tracing around the parts because you can erase it if you stray from the template lines.

The modestly priced powertrain chosen was a Turnigy 2826/10 1,400 Kv motor, a HobbyKing 35-amp ESC, and an APC electric propeller. The 6 x 4 propeller shown was later change to a 7 x 4 for greater efficiency. The 3S batteries, ranging from 1,000 to 1,300 mAh, require only a slight shifting of position on their hook-and-loop mounts to achieve the required CG.

There are only five fuselage pieces. Use 5-minute epoxy to laminate the bottom fuselage center pieces. Although only one wiring hole is shown in the photo, the plans template has additional wiring crossover holes.

2) Place the bottom front plate flat on your work surface and apply a bead of hot glue to the top of one outside edge. You need to work quickly before it sets up. Stand one of the fuselage side rails on edge and attach it to the bottom front plate at the notch. Repeat for the other rail. The rails should be squarely installed so they will align with the outside edges of the propeller clearance slot in the wing. You might want to use a scrap piece of foam board as a spacer at the back of the rails to ensure they maintain a constant width from front to back.

Step 2 The fuselage front bottom plate is hot glued into the notches of the two fuselage side rails. An extra bead of hot glue will increase its strength.

3) Epoxy the bottom curved fuselage center pieces together to make a double-thickness laminated fuselage former. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to one side and keep the two pieces aligned while the epoxy cures.

4) Place a piece of waxed paper on your work surface large enough to extend beyond the joint in the two wing pieces. Spread a thin bead of 5-minute epoxy on the rear of the front wing piece and slide it into contact with the main wing panel. If any epoxy oozes out of either side, wipe it off immediately using a dry paper towel. Weight the two pieces down to keep them flat, and allow the joint to cure.

Step 4 The wing is constructed from two pieces epoxied together and weighted to maintain a flat, warp-free flying surface. Sheets of 6mm foam larger than the 30 x 20-inch foam specified in the text will allow you to cut out the wing in one piece.

5) Mark a centerline in pencil on the top and bottom of the wing, using a long straightedge. These two lines will be the reference points for joining the remaining parts to the completed wing panel. If you need to enlarge the cutout to use a larger motor and firewall, now would be the time to do it.

6) Glue the laminated fuselage former to the bottom centerline of the wing with hot glue, reinforcing it with additional beads of glue on both sides.

Step 6 The bottom fuselage center laminate is glued to the bottom of the wing using a centerline drawn as suggested in the construction notes. A bead of glue should be applied to the full length of the joint on both sides.

7) Place the fuselage side rails and bottom front piece unit over the bottom of the wing and mark a line on each side for their respective locations. Glue the unit in place by running a bead of glue down the lines you marked and placing a bead of glue into the notch in the laminated fuselage former. Reglue the side rail joints on the inside and outside for additional strength.

Step 7 The front bottom plate and fuselage side rail assembly fits into the notch in the fuselage center laminate and the rails are glued to the bottom of the wing. An extra bead of glue should be added to the wing/rail joints on both sides.

Step 8 After cutting out the main wing panel, the ailerons can be separated using a steel-edge ruler and a scalpel or sharp hobby knife with a #11 blade.

The top of each elevon is hinged with a strip of Blenderm tape across the full length of the piece.

The elevon is then bent flat over the top of the wing and two pieces of Blenderm tape are placed 90° to the wing/elevon joint, spaced at an even distance from each end. Note that the elevon’s LE has been sanded to a triangular or chisel shape to allow the joint to bend and not bind against the back edge of the wing.

8) Turn the wing over so the top side is facing up. Sand the bottom of each elevon to a wedge shape to taper the leading edge (LE). Hinge the pieces with a piece of 3M Blenderm tape or Scotch Magic Mending Tape placed over the top seam of each elevon and wing joint.

Fold both elevator/aileron pieces back flat against the wing surface. Put two pieces of tape at right angles to the elevon and wing seam on each side, spacing out the tape for strength and flexibility.

9) Glue the front top piece (cockpit area) of the fuselage in place, reinforcing it with additional beads of glue on the side. Now glue the rudder piece in place in back of the propeller clearance slot. Make sure it is both vertically and horizontally straight, and then add an additional bead of glue along each side seam.

10) The final fuselage piece is the bottom fairing aft of the propeller slot and directly beneath the rudder. This piece adds strength to the aft fuselage tail cone. Because it is well away from the propeller, it can be used as a grip for launching the airplane. It should receive an extra bead of glue on both sides.

Step 10 The rudder and the bottom fuselage piece both have a notch at the front to clear the propeller spinner. The tapered tail cone shapes add strength to the aft end so it can be gripped to launch the airplane.

11) I found it easiest to bolt the motor to the motor mount and then install the entire unit to the cruciform mounting surface using 5-minute epoxy. The epoxy allows tweaking during the curing process to make sure the thrustline remains at 0-0. After the epoxy sets up, I used a second coat to build up fillets between the back of the motor mount and the foam board cruciform.

Step 11 The motor mount is glued in place using 5-minute epoxy. A second coat is applied to build up a fillet all around the back of the motor mount where it joins the fuselage/ wing juncture. It’s easiest to epoxy the complete assembly in place in order to assure a 0-0 thrust angle.

Radio Installation

The area between the main laminated fuselage former and the fuselage side rails on both sides allows ample space to mount the receiver, ESC, and battery using industrial-grade hook-and-loop material. It’s easiest to do a mockup of the layout before attaching the hook-and-loop material.

Radio Installation This view shows the placement of the receiver and servos. The ESC is mounted under the front bottom plate, with the battery attached to the side of the fuselage as far forward as necessary to achieve the CG.

Hot gluing it to the foam board works better than trying to use the self-sticking variety. The cutouts in the main fuselage former allow the wires to be moved to whichever side of the fuselage is required.

It’s wise to move the ESC as far forward as the length of the motor wires allows, to achieve proper center of gravity (CG) without needing to place the battery too far out on the nose area.

The two 9-gram servos are slipped into their respective cutouts and hot glued in place. Center the servos before attaching the pushrods to them and to the control horns. GWS servo keepers, along with Du-Bro Micro Control Horns and Micro E/Z Links, work well with the .047-inch music wire pushrods. The control horns should align with the servo arms. I drilled pilot holes for the control horn pins and used foam-safe CA glue to lock them in place.

Because I was using my trusty Futaba T6J transmitter and R2006GS receiver, it was simply a matter of going through approximately five screens to set up the elevon mix. My starting point for initial test flights was 80% control throws and 40% exponential.

Servo Installation The servos are hot glued in place and the control horns are glued in place using foam-safe CA. A Dubro mini-keeper is used to lock the pushrods to the control horns.

Preparing for Flight

After the electronics were installed, I finished the model in the color scheme and markings of the prototype high-altitude Avro Vulcan—an easy task because the airplane was all white with few markings! I did a Google search for “Royal Air Force roundels” to find the fuselage and wing roundels. I printed them on plain paper and used spray adhesive to attach them to the foam board. All other markings were cut from MonoKote trim sheet and adhered to the foam board as you can see in the photos.

Markings for this version of the Vulcan are minimal. The cockpit markings are from a MonoKote trim sheet and the RAF roundels were printed and attached with Elmer’s spray adhesive.

Foam board does not like moisture—including high humidity—so you might want to seal it. Some modelers have found that Minwax oil-based polyurethane (not the water-based formula) works well.

The delta-wing planform is distinctive in the air, providing the in-flight illusion of a complex, scalelike Vulcan bomber.

One of our club members had success with brushing Minwax on and wiping it off with paper towels before it dried. He then sprayed his airplane with rattle-can paint without causing any warping. Sealing in such a manner would have to be done after the airplane is constructed because hot glue won’t stick to Minwax polyurethane.

Although the model presented here doesn’t have any finish on it, the later low-altitude version of the Avro Vulcan has a striking green and gray camouflage scheme that could be applied after sealing the foam board.

I used a 3S 1,000 mAh battery for my first flights with the prototype, moving the battery forward as needed to attain the CG, and checking all of the control throws to make sure they were equal and moving in the correct direction.

Make sure the motor is turning in the right direction by removing the propeller and attaching a small piece of double-sided masking tape to the motor shaft. Slowly run the throttle lever up. If it’s rotating backward, simply switch any two of the motor wires in their ESC sockets. When reinstalling the propeller, the pitch numbers on the front of the propeller should be facing the motor case to achieve the greatest efficiency.

The Avro Vulcan in Flight

Control surface deflections were set to 1/2 inch up and down, and the airplane was launched with roughly four clicks of up-elevator to indicate which way it needed to go. That proved to be the right amount, with some of the up-elevator removed when the desired airspeed was reached.

The tailcone in back of the rudder was intended as a convenient object to grip to launch the Avro Vulcan with your hand aft of the propeller and out of harm’s way. Using that technique, the model can be pointed upward at approximately 45°. When the motor is brought up to nearly full power, the model will simply leave your hand with no need to throw it.

The Vulcan’s glide is slower than walking pace with no tendency to tip stall. Note the nose-up angle of attack and the position of the elevons as it sets up for a landing.

From the first launch, it proved to be a stable, fully acrobatic model capable of achieving high speeds and less-than-walking-speed landing approaches. It never showed a tendency to tip stall. When it was throttled back to stall speed in the air, it dropped its nose slightly and mushed straight ahead. It is a comfortable, visually exciting airplane while in the air.

I want to thank fellow club member Paul Phillips for his steady hand at the controls so I could capture flight photos, and Chase Watkins for his construction techniques that I adapted to the Avro Vulcan to make it a lightweight, but sturdy design.

I’m pleased with this foam-board project. Given its minimal cost and quick construction, I think you will be, too.

—Larry Kruse

Written by Tom Sandor
Electric Free Flight “push-pull” model
Free plans and build photos
Photos by the author and Dough Harvey
Read the full tutorial in the October 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Download Free Plans

Click here for full plans 27.75" x 30.61"
Click here for tiled plans 8.5" x 11"

Specifications

Type: Semiscale
Wingspan: 23 inches
Length: 16 inches
Wing area: 70 square inches
Flying weight: 2 ounces
Motor: ParkZone with gearbox
Battery: 1S 70 mAh LiPo
Receiver: ParkZone 2.4 GHz three-channel

Background

I am a dreamer. I have been as far back as I can recall. I also loved drawing things. When neighborhood kids were playing touch football in the street, or punch baseball, I could be found up in my attic building or drawing model airplanes.

Yes that is right, the dreamer artist and I was good at it—still am, with a fine arts degree from Newark School of Fine and Industrial Arts in New Jersey.

Well, it’s time now to snap out of my memory scrapbook and get to the Cessna writing.

I took a short rest from model building after 14 of my designs were published in Flying Models magazine, but inspiration came again. Funny how that happens, often when you least expect it. The television was on and I was having a late breakfast and my wife was thumbing through the channels when I said, “Hey, hold that channel.”

There it was, flashing across the screen, my next model aircraft subject, the Cessna Skymaster. In the cabin, at the controls, was the actor Danny Glover with the intercom to home base. It was quite a striking scene. The aircraft was white and royal blue, flying in crisp contrast against a majestic, dark mountain backdrop. “That’s it! I just have to model that one.”

The Cessna Skymaster is a twin-engine civil utility aircraft built in a push-pull configuration with one engine mounted in the nose and the other behind its pod-style fuselage. This model is fashioned after the Cessna 337F Skymaster with two continental 10-360 GB-210 hp piston engines. The wingspan is 38.2 feet and length is 29.8 feet.

Construction

Start with the airframe using medium grain 1/16-inch balsa or 1/20-inch basswood. Cover the plans with protective waxed paper and make both fuselage sides as indicated. Box these together with crosspieces followed with curved upper and lower crosspieces. When everything is correctly aligned, apply all of the fuselage stringers except the two single side stringers as indicated on the plans. At this point, the micro servos and mini motor should be installed. For proper placement of these, see the note on plan A.

The mini motor will need a nose block made from light balsa and carved to shape internally to fit the motor. The servo tray is mounted as shown on the plans. The rear motor shaft is a simple hat pin mounted inside the small, lightweight, balsa engine block. This arrangement is made to create the illusion of rear-engine pusher power and will actually spin from the nose propeller wash. Yes, it actually works.

Drawing B is for making and installing removable rear wheel gear on the model. Everything else is straightforward for experienced modelers, or even talented beginners.

After you select the wood, lay out the main wing arrangement according to the plans, paying careful attention to the root center sections. Two 1/8-inch ribs (R-1) must be placed at the proper angle (front view C), to create the proper dihedral for the wing.

Next finish the twin tailbooms and rudders as indicated on the plans. Install everything after you select the color scheme for the tissue covering. Complete the stabilizer with the provision for lifting ability.

I surfed the Internet for color scheme choices. I was amazed at the variety of beautiful color schemes, slight design modifications, etc., that were made on the full-scale Cessna Skymaster.

The plans don’t show a rear engine air intake. I omitted this to allow the nose propeller airstream to have a better flow into the rear propellers.

To complete the project, apply the finest wet-strength tissue available to the model’s framework. My suggested color scheme is shown in the photos that were supplied by my friend, Dough Harvey.

If you’re an experienced park flyer, there’s nothing more I can say except I wish you success and happy landings. There is nothing stopping you from altering this simple Free Flight model to an RC aircraft by adding a working rudder and elevator. I hope you enjoy flying this Cessna Skymaster.

The Cessna Skymaster was designed as a Free Flight model and uses plug-in landing gear.

The model can be built on top of the plans. Use medium-grain 1/16-inch balsa or 1/20-inch basswood for the fuselage.

The 1/32-inch balsa wing sheeting reinforces the area from the fuselage to the tailboom. Battery access is on the bottom of the fuselage.

The author chose white and royal blue to match the Cessna Skymaster he saw on TV, but many color schemes were used on the full-scale aircraft.

The rear motor shaft is a simple hat pin mounted inside the small, lightweight balsa pusher-engine block. This arrangement creates the illusion of rear engine pusher power and will actually spin from the nose propeller wash.

Written by Tom Sullivan
This stunning model is also economical to fly
Watch two videos of the Seagull
Read the full review in the October 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Seagull Radial Rocket Video Highlights

Seagull Radial Rocket Main Gear Modification

Specifications

Model type: Semiscale ARF
Skill level: Intermediate builder; advanced pilot
Wingspan: 62.3 inches
Wing area: 570.4 square inches
Airfoil: Semisymmetrical
Length: 45.1 inches
Weight: 7.1 to 7.3 pounds
Recommended power system: 10cc gas; .82-1.0 glow; electric
Needed to complete: Radio system with seven servos
Construction: Balsa and plywood
Covering: UltraCote
Price: $224.99

Test Model Details

Radio system: Spektrum DX18 transmitter; Spektrum AR7000 receiver; seven Spektrum A6160 digital servos; 1,600 mAh receiver battery; Y harness and several servo extensions of varying lengths
Power system used: Evolution 10GX gas engine; Master Airscrew 12 x 8 three-blade propeller
Flying weight: 7.5 pounds
Flight duration: 15 to 20 minutes

Pluses

• This sport scale model captures the lines of the full-scale Radial Rocket.
• Options are included for glow, gas, or electric power systems.
• Includes tank, wheels, and all control hardware.
• Prepainted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants exactly match the iron-on covering.
• The Evolution 10GX pairs perfectly with the aircraft, offering plenty of power and flight times of more than 15 minutes per/tank.
• Stable in high-speed flight and the flaps allow it to slow down for gentle, main-gear landings.

Minuses

• The main gear struts flex with only slight finger pressure.
• The Radial Rocket TD’s manual contains most of the steps, but there are several mistakes.
• Where the wing’s TE mounts to the fuselage, some relief had to be cut so the wing could be installed or removed after the bottom cover was attached.

Written by Jay Smith and Rachelle Haughn.
Storing and disposing of your batteries.
Read the full article in the October 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Storing and Disposing of LiPos

Written by Robert J. Engle.
A grand jet event with bonus photos
Read the full article in the November 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

When Jay Smith from Model Aviation and I talked about me writing an article for Jets Over Kentucky Week, I was excited to have the opportunity do so. Jets Over Kentucky is in its 11th year and one of the largest Jet events in the US.

It is held in the small town of Lebanon, Kentucky. When my GPS said the hotel was at the next turn, I thought it was malfunctioning because I only saw fields, but there it was.

The event is held at the Lebanon-Springfield County Airport and it’s a wonderful site for jets. The runway is nearly a mile long and 75-feet wide, with open areas in every direction. There is hardly anything in the way to impede your flying.

There was an occasional full-scale airplane landing, so all the jets had to land and wait for a few minutes, but then they were back in the air. The Air Methods EC135 helicopter was out saving lives and in and out all weekend, but the crew was courteous and when they departed they just flew along the road away from the runway environment.

As a jet modeler in my fifth year, I am sorry to admit that I had not previously attended this event. The atmosphere is laid-back—just a bunch of people having fun doing what they love most. This is unusual for such a large event.

One of the things I like most about the jet crowd is that it is a close group. You see the same people at many of the events and it’s like family. There were pilots from many other countries who had traveled a long distance and I hope they felt at ease at Jets Over Kentucky and will come back. Each pilot—160 in all—registered and paid a small fee to fly for seven days at this magnificent facility.

I was told it was the wettest Jets Over Kentucky event ever—not the greatest weather for taking pictures with clouds and haze. There was rain almost every day, and if you were not standing on pavement, your feet were soon soaked and muddy.

There were many thunderstorms and downpours, and a few tents got an unexpected ride, but the minute the rain stopped, the jets were flying and the public enjoyed many hours of watching them. I don’t know the exact number, but I would guess there were several hundred jets on site.

The hangar at the end of the day looked like the hangar of all our dreams. It was filled with jets in every shape and size and it was locked at night to secure them. The hangar doubled as the banquet hall for the pilots and crew to enjoy a great catered meal and awards presentation at the end of the event on Saturday.

Next was the auction. This was a great chance to bid on something and save a few dollars. There were small foam jets, electronic parts, tools, turbines, and a giant BAE Hawk, as well as many other great things and free CA glue bottles by the hundreds.

There were six flight stations and they were filled most of the time with pilots tearing up the sky. Being from the military and, as we say, being “squared away,” I am very critical of safety and organization. Marvin Alverez ran the flightline like an aircraft carrier flight deck. He shuttled jets on and off the runway with speed and precision. I thought he did an incredible job on the flightline each day. We were lucky to have him.

Of course, the main reason there is a Jets Over Kentucky event is because of Lewis “The General” Patton. Lewis puts a ton of time into this event and simply wants people to have a good time. He is easy to talk to and if you have a problem he will do his best to fix it or devise a suitable compromise. I want to thank Lewis, not just for his event, but for his continued support and dedication to the hobby we love.

For anyone needing parts or looking to make a purchase, there were plenty of vendors and sponsors from which to choose, with nearly everything one could want from glue to turbine engines.

There were a few food vendors on site with hot food as well as cold drinks. I think someone would have made a killing with a mobile ice cream or drink stand because it was extremely hot and humid each day.

Many pilots grilled their own food and many had RV setups that were unbelievable! I guess, after attending a large number of events, these people have their layouts down to a science. Lewis had all the parking for RVs and campers organized long ago, so attendees had their favorite spots.

Although the weather was uncooperative, I think everyone still had a great time. When the rain was falling, people worked on airplanes or sat together and caught up with each other and shared winter projects that they had built.
I also managed to get a few flights in. Rick Daubert, from Pennsylvania, brought some nice jets and was kind enough to let me fly. Thanks, Rick.

I hope everyone had a great time during Jets Over Kentucky Week and I look forward to seeing the event grow. It is a grand gathering to attend whether it is just to watch or even better, to fly in it! I hope to see you all next year, and in the meantime, happy and safe flying!

Written by Rachelle Haughn
Diversity is the heart of the competition with bonus photos
Read the full article in the November 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Close your eyes and try to picture a typical Nats competitor. Images such as an older man with salt-and-pepper hair whose hands are callused and bear scars from years of hard work may come to mind. Maybe he has tan lines on his face where his eyes were protected by sunglasses during his many days at the flying field, and he is wearing stained a T-shirt that clearly shows he was born in the good old USA.

Now open your eyes and clear that image from your mind. Take a look at the photos with this article and you will see that the Nats is a diverse and eclectic mix of people. Young, old, male, female, new pilots, experienced pilots, world champions, and those born on foreign soil travel to Muncie, Indiana, each year to compete in the “best contest in the world.” And that, my friends, is what makes the Nats special.

Those who trek each year to the Nats don’t always go it alone. Some meet up and travel with friends or mentors and have as much fun on the road trip as they do at the event. Others make the journey with or to see their parents, uncles or aunts, siblings, nieces or nephews and make the Nats one big family reunion with a little model flying thrown in. When all of these people get together, the stereotypes are tossed out the window and the fun begins

The people who travel to the Nats to compete don’t merely come from Indiana’s neighboring states. At the 2015 Nats there were competitors from California, Louisiana, Texas, Georgia, Florida, New York, and New Mexico, to name a few. There were also dedicated pilots who trekked from England, Jamaica, Mexico, Japan, and Canada.

Deryck Taylor took two flights (11/2 hours each) to make it to Atlanta from his home in Kingston, Jamaica. There, he met up with his mentor and friend, Wayne Matthews, who lives in Atlanta, and fellow pilot, Alvaro De Luna, of Toluca, Mexico. The RC Scale Aerobatics pilots then traveled by vehicle for 81/2 hours to get to the Nats. This was Alvaro’s first Nats. Deryck believed this was his ninth or 10th.

Alvaro stated at the beginning of the RC Scale Aerobatics Nats that he is accustomed to flying model aircraft in high altitudes near his home. “It’s really tough [at home] because the airplanes don’t have enough power. You need full throttle there. Here, you need half power. I feel like the airplanes fly better here.” He is the president of the International Miniature Aerobatic Club in Mexico.

Another Nats attendee who had a lengthy journey was Neil Tidey. He traveled all the way from Leighton Buzzard, England. This was also Neil’s first time at the AMA Nats. His trip served a dual purpose. He attended to observe how the national competition is run in the US in hopes of starting a similar Control Line (CL) Scale national event in England, and to serve as pitman for his friend and fellow England native, Dave Platt.

Dave moved to the US from England in 1967 to work for Top Flite models. He is known for wearing wild Hawaiian shirts when competing. “It brings a bit of Florida cheer to Indiana,” he said about the shirt he was wearing for the static competition.

Flying at another CL circle at this year’s Nats was Kaz Minato, who lives in Japan. Kaz participated in his first Nats in 1987. It was held in Lincoln, Nebraska, that year and at the time, he was living in the US and working for Honda. “Control Line is everything to me. When I moved here, I just brought my friend [his airplane].”

Kaz retired five years ago and moved back to Japan. He has been flying CL for 50 years. In that time, he has competed seven times in world championships for CL Precision Aerobatics. His two sons have also competed in the world championships and the Nats.

“This is the best competition in the world and the people are very friendly,” Kaz commented about the Nats.

Some Nats events also had competitors from a country slightly closer to the US: Canada. The 2015 Nats had Canadian competitors in events such as CL Combat and RC Precision Aerobatics.

Friends Harry Ells, of Cobourg, Ontario, and Xavier Mouraux, Laval, Quebec, are accustomed to competing together. “There aren’t any local competitions in Quebec, so [Xavier] comes down to fly in our competitions,” Harry said. “I fly more contests in the US” than in Canada.

Xavier was clearly excited to be competing at the RC Precision Aerobatics Nats again after a nine-year absence. “It’s too bad we don’t have that guy that sings at the beginning of the Indy 500. It would be really cool if he was here!” Xavier stated, referring to Jim Neighbors, who formerly sang each year at the Indianapolis 500 race.

In addition to autocross racing, Xavier used to compete ice racing and speed skating. “I like fast stuff but I like slow airplanes,” the RC Precision Aerobatics competitor added.

There were also a couple of Nats participants who were born in other countries but currently reside in the US.

England native Nick Marson, an RC Precision Aerobatics pilot, became a US citizen in 2011 after falling in love with and marrying Texas resident Diane. The two met on 9/11 after their airplane was grounded in Newfoundland because of the terrorist attacks.

This was the couple’s first trip to the Nats, and Nick finished fourth in the Intermediate class.

There was also some diversity at the RC Sailplane Nats. This included a man born in Poland who moved to the US roughly 25 years ago. Leszek Zyga, who currently lives in New Jersey, took many Sailplane pilots by surprise with his great flying skills. This was his first Nats and he placed third in the Senior category.

Leszek said he decided to compete in the Nats because “I wanted to see the biggest [flying] place in this country.”

The final week of the Nats drew Scale Helicopter pilot Emile Sheriff and his striking Bell 407 to Muncie, Indiana. Emile was born in Jamaica and moved to Enterprise, Alabama, in 1981. This was his fourth trip to the Nats since 2009.

“I didn’t have a new machine to compete with,” was why he didn’t make it to the Nats in previous years. “Life sometimes gets in the way.”

Several other competitors were in the same boat as Emile. They had competed as kids, teenagers, or young adults and had to take a break because of other obligations or finances.

Aimee Bagley was one such person. As a teenager, she competed in several CL Combat Nats with her father, Mike Olson, in the 1980s. This was her first time back to the Nats since her father’s death two years ago. She had an inscription in her father’s memory on the pink helmet that she wore when competing.

After reading an article in the June 2015 issue of Model Aviation about the Margaret June CL Sportsman Goodyear Racer, Mark Knight decided that a roughly 25-year absence from the CL Racing Nats was long enough. “Life got in the way and I got out of building [aircraft]. Then I read the Margaret June and it inspired me to get back into it.”

Mark had nothing ready for competition, so he decided to serve as a timer this year. “I will definitely be back next year!” he said enthusiastically.

There are some competitors who seem to be staples at the Nats. They rarely miss the annual contest. If they do, it’s for good reason.

CL Navy Carrier competitors Dick Perry and Pete Mazur, and Pylon pilots Dub Jett and Mike Helsel fall into this category.

Dick said that when he attended his first Nats in 1976 there were so many competitors that “we had two decks and people couldn’t get all of their flights in.”

Pete’s first Nats was in 1967. “I’ve been at every one since 1975, which was when I won my first.”

Dub celebrated his 53rd Nats this year and was inducted into the AMA Model Aviation Hall of Fame. He attended his first Nats in 1956. “I tell people it’s easier to figure out what Nats I didn’t go to,” he said with a smile. He has missed a handful of Nats—one of them was because he was in college, and another because he got married.

Where there’s Dubb, one can likely find Mike. They frequently call for each other. Mike started competing in the Nats in 1969. In addition to Pylon, Mike has flown in RC Precision Aerobatics and RC Scale at the Nats. His father taught him how to fly and they competed alongside each other in a couple of Nats.

“He flew off and on his whole life,” Mike said of his dad. “A date for him was he would pick my mom up and take her back to his house and build airplanes.”

Kevin Hines, a CL Speed competitor, had a similar “romantic” tale to tell. He and his wife, Bonnie, were married in 1991 and celebrated their honeymoon by attending the Nats in Vincennes, Indiana.

Kevin fondly recalled that experience. “I heard these engines screaming. They said this guy, Carl Dodge, had built that engine and I’d never heard anything like that.”

“Until today,” Carl added, laughing.

Kevin grew up building Cox CL airplanes in his basement with his brother, Steve. His sibling also competed for a while, but now he concentrates on helping his daughter, Samantha Hines. Samantha won her second consecutive Junior Championship in CL Precision Aerobatics this year.

The Hines family wasn’t the only one at the Nats. Among them were RC Scale Aerobatics pilots Kevin and Evan Turner; Pylon competitors Joanne and Bruce Coffee; CL Combat pilot Rylan Ritch and his father, Pylon pilot Randy Ritch; Charlie and Peter Bauer; RC Precision Aerobatics pilots Brandon Sobolewski, Steve Sobolewski, and Steve’s brother-in-law, David Golubski; and Free Flight (FF) pilots Kyle and David Gerspacher.

At the spry age of 85, Charlie Bauer decided to give the Nats one more shot. The former AMA District Vice President declared last year that the 2014 Nats would be his last. When asked why he came back this year, he said he decided to compete in one more because his son was competing and could do most of the flying for him. Charlie attended his first Nats in 1938. “And I only missed two of them—that was courtesy of Uncle Sam.” Charlie served in the US Army in California.

Unlike Charlie, this was the first Nats for Joanne Coffee and David Golubski.

“Well it’s cool,” Joanne said of her first Nats experience. She was the only woman competing in Pylon this year, and she flew a pink Phoenix airplane. “With all of the different venues, it’s exciting to see all of these people from different states.

“I wanted to see what [the Nats] was all about. I just wanted to see it, to participate in it. I talked Bruce into it.” Her husband last competed in the Nats 20 years ago, she added.

Brandon convinced his father and uncle to compete in the Intermediate class this year. David, Brandon’s uncle, said he didn’t practice before the Nats. “The first time that I flew was the first time I flew the pattern” at the Nats.

“I enjoy it and I love it,” he said about his first Nats experience. “I got my nephew’s old plane. It’s definitely a lot harder than it looks, but more fun than it looks.”

“Well, I just got tired of sitting around, taping Brandon” flying, is why Steve decided to participate in the Nats. “I love coming here. The people, the space … it feels good.”

At age 16 Brandon was far from the youngest competitor at the Nats this year. There were also Evan, age 12, Rylan, age 13, and Kyle, age 14.

Rylan showed no fear as he battled with men three times his age, going on to earn the Best Junior trophy.

He explained why he likes the CL Combat Nats. “It’s rough out in the circle. You get to bump around a little bit.” Rylan has been competing in the Nats for five years. He also flew in the world championship in Bulgeria in 2012.

“It’s a lot of fun,” he said of the Nats. “You get to go out to eat with everybody. You just sit around and have fun.”

Having fun and the camaraderie were the most popular answers when Nats participants were asked why they enjoyed attending the annual competition. For many, the friendships and people are more important than the trophies and plaques.

RC Combat competitor Bill Geipel and RC Helicopter pilot Dwight Shilling and are known for generating fun by entertaining their fellow competitors each year. Bill accomplishes this with phantom hands, funny tales, and magic tricks, and Dwight uses, well, disgusting food.

“It’s just a lot of fun to fly. We all sit here and laugh and have a good time,” Bill said. “I come for the fun and the people. I guess I wouldn’t say to get points,” he stated with a laugh.

It wouldn’t be the Helicopter Nats without the Dwight Shilling Food Challenge. He has a special hat that he wears and the person who finds a food that he either will not eat at all or would not eat again gets the honor of signing a special plaque.

“It’s fun to watch how squeamish people are when you eat something that they wouldn’t,” Dwight stated.

Despite the fact that watching Dwight eat may upset some stomachs, RC Helicopter competitors, and those in other competitions, look forward to the Nats each year and said they wouldn’t miss it for the world.

“I’m having fun and that’s what’s important,” stated Brian Shaw, who competed in RC Scale and RC Precision Helicopters this year. Brian had a smile on his face for most of the Helicopter Nats, even when competing.

Equally happy to be at the Nats was Kyle Gerspacher. He said the Wakefield F1B FF competition was his favorite. “It’s probably the funnest day of the week because you get to compete and test your skills.” Kyle, who frequently smiled, while getting his model ready to fly, added that he has several friends at the Nats.

RC Scale competitor Jeff Foley said that being able to compete in the Nats was somewhat therapeutic for him after his wife’s death this year.

“We build these models to fly. There’s joy and heartache [in it]. I get so much joy out of taking the bits and pieces and making something that flies,” Jeff stated.

He continued, “The best thing about the Nats is the people you meet. You’re associated with kindred spirits.”

If you’re looking for some kindred spirits, adventure, fun, friendship, or a chance to test your skills, then maybe the Nats is for you.

Every Nats participant has a story to tell. Consider coming to the Nats next year to create your own.

Indoor Nats

Outdoor Nats

Click here to access Nats News

A one-on-one interview with the author of the book Devotion.
Online exclusive review of Devotion.

Pilot Jesse Brown’s final flight took place above the frozen Chosin Reservoir in North Korea, during the coldest winter in nearly 100 years. He and his fellow aviators were on a mission to protect cornered Marines from the White Jackets, Communist troops that hid by day and attacked by night. The Marines’ survival depended on air power.

The enemy’s weapons fired a volley into the night sky. Jesse’s Corsair developed an oil leak. Fellow pilot Tom Hudner surveyed the terrain. Jesse was going down. If he survived the crash, the enemy was sure to capture him. The torture inflicted on captured pilots was unspeakable.

Tom had to decide whether to leave his friend and fellow aviator to die alone thousands of miles from home, or risk everything to save him. Jesse’s story couldn’t end there ...

Devotion is Adam Makos’ story of Tom Hudner, a white pilot from the country clubs of New England, and Jesse Brown, the son of a Mississippi sharecropper who became the nation’s first black carrier pilot. Set against the backdrop of the “forgotten” Korean War and dealing with racism, the story follows the two Navy pilots through training, to duty in the Mediterranean where they met the young actress, Elizabeth Taylor, to the war in Korea, barely a year after President Harry Truman ordered the desegregation of the US military. Tom and Jesse found themselves pilots in Fighter Squadron 32, landing on the deck of the aircraft carrier USS Leyte.

For much of the well-researched book, the author relates the background of the two pilots as well as detouring into biographies of others, often telling their stories in their own words, describing the peacetime lives of the men. Footnotes detail background facts such as military treaties that, if broken, could have escalated the conflict into another world war.

The author follows Tom and Jesse’s unlikely friendship as the war escalates and Tom and Jesse become embroiled in one of the pivotal battles of the Korean War where Tom’s harrowing actions earned him the Medal of Honor.

Available October 27, 2015, the 464-page non-fiction novel retails for $16.27. Random House: 1745 Broadway, New York NY 10019; Tel: (212) 782-8261; website: www.penguinrandomhouse.com

An F8F Bearcat piloted by Jesse Brown in November 1949.

Tom Hudner, a naval officer.

Elizabeth Taylor with sailors.

Model Aviation had the opportunity to talk with Adam Makos about his book, Devotion. The book is described as an epic story of heroism, friendship, and sacrifice. Here is our conversation with Adam.


MA: In the beginning of Devotion, you mentioned that World War II was your area of expertise and you felt unprepared to interview Captain Tom Hudner, but you asked for the opportunity anyway. What aspect of the interview made you want to tell his story and the story of Jesse Brown?

Adam: Tom Hudner’s reputation preceded him. His name is legendary in military circles, for what he did to try to save his wingman, Jesse Brown—an intentional crash landing, behind enemy lines. It was one of most inspiring acts in military history. It hadn’t happened before, it hasn’t happened since. It was so super-human that the captain of his aircraft carrier went on the record saying, “There has been no finer act of unselfish heroism in military history.”

I just had to figure out how Tom became the kind of person who would take such a risk, and “why”? What was it about Jesse Brown that Tom would put his life on the line for him?

MA: In the introduction to Devotion, you wrote that it was a war story, a love story, and an inspirational story—essentially an American story. How did you go about weaving the stories of all of those people whom you interviewed into this chronological story of Tom Hudner and Jesse Brown, who formed such an unlikely, enduring friendship that one risked his life to try to save the other against all odds?

Adam: For so many of us, the Korean War is an enigma. We think of M.A.S.H., or Marilyn Monroe singing for the troops. There hasn’t been a good Korean War movie since Pork Chop Hill and even that dates back to 1959. So I tried to tell a bigger story, to pay homage to every veteran who fought that war, so he can hand this book to his grandkid and say, “See, this is what we fought for.”

In addition to following the aviators as they fly guns blazing into human waves of enemy troops, we follow the Marines on the ground, the men who were looking up as the flyboys strafed overhead, raining down sizzling shell cartridges. We put the reader into the Marines’ frozen foxholes at the Chosin Reservoir as they fight in temperatures so cold that their weapons freeze solid. And ultimately, we come home with the men, to show the cost of war—a young wife getting that dreaded telegram and how she finds the courage to go on.

Weaving these stories together was like conducting an orchestra, trying to get twenty pieces to sound in unison. But it wasn’t so tough. These young Americans all shared a common spirit, the spirit of their great generation. When it comes to Korea, we often forget: the “Greatest Generation” didn’t fight just one war.

MA: As part of your research into the background of this story, you were allowed into North Korea and mentioned that you owe the success of that venture to Captain Hudner. Can you go into more detail?

Adam: Without spoiling the story, in December 1950, on a frozen mountainside in North Korea, Tom Hudner made a last promise to his dying friend—to one day come back for him.

When I was writing the chapter in which he uttered those words, I stopped and called Tom. “Did you ever make it back to North Korea?” He had not; few, if any, Americans ever venture there.

But then I thought of a B-17 pilot named Charlie Brown. A hero of my first book, “A Higher Call,” Charlie had this crazy notion that he could find the German pilot who had spared his life, forty years after their encounter. Charlie didn’t know the German’s name, they had only flown together for ten minutes. All he knew was the man’s face. Yet, Charlie searched the world and found his savior, Franz Stigler, when everyone else said it was impossible.

So, I asked Tom Hudner: “Would you go back to North Korea if we can get you there?” His answer was a resounding “Yes.” And so in 2013, at age 89, Tom Hudner returned to North Korea to keep his promise made sixty-three years prior.

MA: You used quotes to tell much of this amazing story. Was this your intent, or was it because so many of those you interviewed had such strong, unclouded memories of what took place nearly 60 years before?

Adam: What a difference a few years makes. Most World War II veterans are now in their 90s, and their storytelling ability is slipping. But these Korean Veterans—and their memories—are a few years younger. I also believe their stories had been pent-up inside of them for decades since the war.

They didn’t have local school kids coming to write papers on them. They weren’t speaking at this Veteran’s Day ceremony or that. They, like their war, had been largely forgotten. So I like to think that this book was simply a key to open the flood gates for them, so they could finally have their say. And what stories they told.

When you discover Tom, Jesse, and the heroes of Devotion, you’ll realize that they were just as brave as the WWII veterans, their battles were just as harrowing, their war mattered just as much, and they’re just as worthy of our respect. I hope “Devotion” gives a face to men and women of the Korean War. They deserve more than M.A.S.H.

Written by Chad Budreau
Flight stabilization trainer comes with “Flight Success Guarantee.”
Video review.
Read the full review in the November 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Sensei Video Review

Specifications

Model type: RTF trainer
Skill level: Beginner
Wingspan: 58 inches
Weight: 3.2 pounds
Length: 48 inches
Radio: Tactic TTX610 six-channel 2.4 GHz (included)
Power system: 3S 2,100 mAh LiPo battery
Construction: AeroCell foam airframe with molded-in detail and preapplied trim scheme
Street price: $349.99

Pluses

• WISE technology keeps the airplane level and stable.
• Large wingspan and markings help with orientation.
• Bomb drop is a fun feature typically not found on trainers.
• Flight Success Guarantee includes free Sensei FS repair or replacement.

Minuses

• Pilots need ample open space in beginner mode.

Product Review

The market has introduced a series of excellent flight-assisted trainers. While working for Model Aviation, I’ve been behind the sticks on many of those trainers. Some really impressed me. Others … eh, left me wanting more.

I was recently given the opportunity to fly the Flyzone Sensei FS. This is a second generation of the Sensei trainer released a few years ago, now with WISE flight stabilization.

I was so impressed with this flier that when I visited a local flying field, I handed the controller to my 10-year-old daughter and later to another new pilot who flew and landed the Sensei beautifully.

First, I want to share a little background about WISE flight stabilization. It gives pilots the confidence they need to master their flying skills. The Sensi FS uses advanced gyros and accelerometers to maintain steady and level flight. This is not an autopilot. Instead, WISE helps prevent new pilots from entering dangerous flying conditions and allows them to easily regain stability.

In beginner mode, the Sensei can turn, but only at approximately a 30° angle. This prevents pilots from banking the aircraft too hard or becoming inverted. To activate beginner mode, simply toggle the top left switch all the way down to 2.

In intermediate mode, the Sensei is more alive, but still prevents pilots from banking more than 90°. Most pilots will quickly graduate to intermediate mode by simply toggling the switch to 1.

Advanced mode is activated by moving the top left switch to 0. This mode removes the WISE stabilization system, giving the pilot unrestricted control of the Sensei.

A couple of unique features about WISE include that it is a physical module installed in the aircraft’s fuselage. With the Sensei FS, the WISE module comes preinstalled and ready to go. The WISE system is also compatible with most RC transmitters, so you’re not limited to one radio brand.

WISE and the Sensei go together like peas and carrots. The Sensei airframe is a rock-solid high-wing trainer. I talked to an owner of the original Sensei who described his airplane as a great Sunday flyer. Couple the Sensei with WISE, and it becomes an ideal trainer.

The Sensei RTF can be assembled in minutes and includes everything needed to fly.

The WISE module can be bound to most radio brands.

The Sensei was a breeze to assemble and includes everything needed to fly including a six-channel 2.4 GHz SLT radio, batteries, and the aircraft. The box includes a few screws, which is all that is needed to assemble the Sensei FS. Installing the propeller, pushrods, and top wing required a few extra seconds, but most pilots will have the Sensei ready to go in 30 minutes or less.

The large 58-inch wingspan and underwings markings will help new pilots maintain orientation and a visual.

I was pleased to see that the Sensei FS includes charging adapters for both AC and DC. Unfortunately, the longest part of the assembly process is waiting for the battery to charge, which takes more than an hour.

During my first flight, I took off in beginner mode. As expected, the Sensei took off almost on its own. Sometimes I had to pull on the stick to get the nose up, but many times it lifted into the air by simply giving it full throttle.

Banking in beginner mode was somewhat limiting, but that is intentional by design. While in beginner mode, the Sensei FS is engineered to prevent pilots from banking too hard. I found while banking, there was no need to pull up, give it extra throttle, or correct alignment when coming out of a turn. Every turn was a beautiful bank.

When I had plenty of elevation, I killed the throttle to see what would happen. The Sensei maintained level flight! The gyros in the WISE system worked seamlessly to keep the nose level.

I later gave the Sensei full throttle, pointed the nose straight up into the air, and killed the throttle to try to stall it. The aircraft climbed as expected, but quickly recovered to level flight.

When in beginner mode, I tried to nose dive the Sensei. The nose dropped, but at a gradual angle. It would be difficult to bonk this aircraft in beginner mode.

Beginner mode is great for new pilots or pilots who need to rebuild their confidence! Because the turns are so wide, pilots will need plenty of open space.

The only minor concern I experienced in beginner mode was when I tried to land. The Sensei was so rock-solidly level, that even at no throttle it wanted to stay level. As a result, when lining up to land I needed a large landing approach. The descent was gradual and I found myself having to point the nose slightly down to prevent overshooting the runway.

In intermediate mode, the Sensei FS becomes more alive. It still limits pilots from doing “dumb thumb” mistakes, but pilots do have more control. Turns are more nimble and the Sensei has a slightly higher climb and descent angle. Most pilots should find intermediate to be a comfortable flying mode. I found landing was also easier in intermediate mode because the Sensei had a greater degree of descent.

In both beginner and intermediate mode, the Sensei was stable and solid. The first time I turned the switch to expert mode, the nose dropped. My first reaction was the pull the elevator down to point the nose back up. I then found myself tinkering with the trim.

Even with that quirk, expert mode was great. I’m not an aerobatics pilot by any stretch of the imagination, but the first time I tried to do a loop I admittedly stalled. Considering my lack of aerobatics skills and the fact that the Sensei is a high-wing trainer and not a 3-D aircraft, the stall didn’t bother me. Later attempts at performing loops were more successful.

Approaching the runway for a landing was slightly trickier, especially after being spoiled when landing in beginning and intermediate mode. Because it’s a high-wing trainer, the Sensei was still easy to land.

The large wheels and landing gear are also forgiving in rough landings. Sometimes the Sensei bounces around during a landing, but the large footprint of the wheels keeps the aircraft on the ground and doesn’t lend itself to flipping.

In any of the three WISE modes, if a pilot enters a dangerous situation, he or she can pull the Bailout switch on the top left of the transmitter. The Sensei quickly corrects its position and returns to stable flight. Admittedly, it is hard to crash the Sensei, especially in beginner mode, but this clever feature will probably save hundreds of aircraft from ending up in a dumpster.

It would be a shame to not mention another feature that I love with this aircraft: the bomb drop. It adds a whole new component to flight and allows a student pilot to grow and have fun with the hobby. During one flight, I added some candy into the cargo bay, which was fun for my daughters to collect.

The Flight Success Guarantee will replace or repair any part damaged in an accident. See manual for details.

A candy drop or parachuting men can add some fun to flight.

WISE includes three flight modes: beginner, intermediate, and expert.

Although this is a flight-assisted trainer, new pilots will have more success when partnering with an experienced flight instructor. There are ample flying tips and safety protocols that can only be conveyed by an instructor.

The Sensei is rock solid in flight, but if a new pilot has a mishap or crash, the Sensei FS comes with a “Flight Success Guarantee.” Flyzone will repair or replace the Sensei for free!

Flight time is roughly 10 minutes, regardless of which flight mode a uses. More aggressive flying may reduce the flight time, while casual flying may slightly increase airtime.

Overall, this is a great trainer aircraft and I would recommend it to anyone. The large size allows pilots to maintain orientation, and the high-winged airframe makes the Sensei a natural trainer. Add WISE technology and the “Flight Success Guarantee,” and the Sensei becomes one of the best trainers on the market.

Download a free desktop wallpaper for your Mac, PC, or other device.
This month's wallpaper showcases the Outdoor Nats 2015 feature spread
Featured in the November 2015 issue Model Aviation.

Each month we will offer free wallpaper to download from Model Aviation. This month we showcase Nats 2015.

Photos by Nats contributors and designed by Chris Savage

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Written by Troy Hamm
A larger Laser in the lineup excels in 3-D.
Flight video.
Read the full review in the November 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

Flight Video

Specifications

Model type: Giant Scale aerobatic ARF
Skill level: Intermediate to advanced
Wingspan: 93 inches
Wing area: 1,557 square inches
Length: 88 inches
Weight: 18 to 20 pounds
Power system: 60 to 70cc gas or Hacker Q80 electric
Radio: Six-channel minimum with five high-torque servos plus throttle servo

Test Model Details

Power system: Desert Aircraft DA-70 gas engine
Radio system: Futaba 14SG radio; two Futaba R6008HS receivers; five Savox SV-1270TG servos; one Savox SC-1268SG servo; Wrong Way RC 2,300 mAh A123 receiver batteries
Propeller: Falcon 24 x 9 carbon fiber
Ready-to-fly weight: 19.7 pounds
Flight duration: 10 to 12 minutes

Pluses

• Flies great.
• Includes wing and stabilizer bags.
• Axles come predrilled for cotter pins.
• Excellent instructions.
• Well built.
• Fast assembly.
• Hardware packs individually labeled.

Minuses

• Elevator hinge line not sealed.
• Mounting holes in the landing gear cuffs didn’t line up.

Specifications
Model type: Semiscale electric-powered foamie
Skill level: Advanced
Wingspan: 34.6 inches
Wing area: 287 square inches (2 square feet)
Length: 34 inches
Radio: Spektrum DX8 2.4 GHz transmitter, Spektrum AR636A receiver (included), four E-flite A320 servos (included)
Components needed to complete: Four-plus-channel transmitter, 4S 3,300 mAh 50C LiPo battery
Minimal flying area: Club field
Price: BNF $229.99; PNP $199.99 (does not include receiver)
Power system: E-flite 15BL 1,200 Kv brushless motor (included), E-flite 70-amp ESC (included), 8 x 8 propeller (included), E-flite 4S 3,300 mAh 50C LiPo battery (not included)
Power output: 61.6 amps, 963 watts, 341 watts/pounds
Flying weight: 2.8 pounds
Flight time: 3-6 minutes
Wing loading: 22.7 ounces/square feet
Cube loading: 16.1

Pluses
• Easy assembly
• Well-executed, visible trim scheme
• Performs fast and aerobatic flights

Minuses
• Launching can be tough
• Hatch grip is unattractive

The Grumman F8F Bearcat was designed during World War II with the goal of having the smallest and lightest airframe matched to the most accessible powerful engine. This resulted in an airplane that could outclimb nearly anything else in the sky. The same “big engine, little airplane” philosophy also proved popular with air racers, who have used military surplus Bearcats to good advantage around the pylons.

One of the most ubiquitous racing Bearcats, Rare Bear, found unprecedented success by making the airframe even smaller and cramming in a larger engine. The original wingspan was shortened by nearly 5 feet to give Rare Bear its characteristic chubby profile. The stock 2,800 cubic inch, 2,250 horsepower radial engine was swapped with a souped-up 3,350 cubic inch powerplant. Some sources say that Rare Bear now packs 4,500 horsepower under the hood—a claim supported by the airplane’s bulging trophy case.

Like its namesake, E-flite’s RC version of the Rare Bear stuffs ample power into a compact airframe. A high-output brushless motor system motivates this downsized doppelganger to triple-digit speeds. If speed is your thing, keep reading.

Prepare the Bear

The Rare Bear is available as a Plug-N-Play (PNP) model, or in the Bind-N-Fly (BNF) version reviewed here. The only difference is that the PNP model requires you to add a receiver, while the BNF version includes a Spektrum AR636A six-channel receiver. Both versions feature a prepainted Z-foam airframe, four metal-geared servos, and a complete power system. You will need to provide a 4S 3,300 mAh LiPo battery.

I was impressed by the kit’s factory finish. The paint job on my version is clean and devoid of any obvious blemishes. The outer surface of the airframe is slightly bumpy because of the nature of the molded foam, yet I could find no defects and the ejector marks are hidden on inner surfaces. I also thought that the decals were well executed with good alignment and no wrinkles or bubbles.

There is little work required to get the Rare Bear flight-ready and the only tool that you will need is a Phillips screwdriver. The first order of business is to install the two halves of the horizontal stabilizer while skewering them onto a carbon-fiber spar. Each half of the stabilizer is held in place with a single screw that threads into a fillet at the root.

All control surfaces are actuated by factory-installed E-flite A320 servos. Those for the elevator and rudder are located in the mid-fuselage, while each aileron has a dedicated wing-mounted servo. I had to connect the pushrod clevis to the elevator control horn. All control linkages for the rudder and ailerons were already complete. The horns and clevises fit together with no binding or slop.

Attaching the wing is similar to the method used for the horizontal stabilizer. Each wing half was placed over the carbon-fiber spar, which also passed through the fuselage. I routed the leads for the aileron servos into the radio bay of the fuselage and attached them to the included Y-harness. The wing panels were secured with four screws that are accessed through the removable canopy hatch.

Speaking of the hatch, it is held in place with a lip on the front and strong magnets in the rear. A clear, flexible handle protrudes from the rear edge of the hatch to provide a gripping surface for removal. The handle works fine, but I didn’t like the looks of it on the otherwise clean profile of the Rare Bear. I found that I could disengage the magnets without damaging the foam by simply skewing the rear of the hatch to either side. After discovering this, I removed the unsightly handle.

The included AR636A receiver was already glued into position with the leads from the ESC, rudder servo, and elevator servo plugged in. After installing the wings, I also attached the aileron Y harness to the receiver. I was able to tidy up the area by securing the servo leads with zip ties and routing the longer of the two antennae through a hole in a fuselage bulkhead (drilled using sharpened brass tubing).

Before binding the receiver to my Spektrum DX8 transmitter, I removed the spinner and propeller as a safety precaution. Accidental propeller spin-ups in my workshop are no fun. The propeller required balancing anyway, so the removal effort was definitely worthwhile.

The manual provides control throws for launching/landing (high rate) and normal flight (low rate). I was surprised by the small travel values suggested for the elevator (3mm and 5mm). It didn’t look adequate for a model of this size. Resist the urge to add more throw. My flight testing has proven the suggested values to be adequate.

The AR636A receiver has built-in AS3X stabilization. Although AS3X won’t level the wings or save you from a crash, it makes the airplane fly smoother. The intent of AS3X stabilization is to minimize the effects of outside forces on the airplane’s flight path.

Power for the Rare Bear comes from a 1,200 Kv outrunner motor spinning an 8 x 8 propeller. The motor is controlled by a 70-amp ESC, which also includes a BEC system to power the radio components. This system’s static amp draw is nearly 62 amps, so you must choose a battery that is capable of delivering that amount of current. I used E-flite’s recommended 4S 3,300 mAh battery with 50C discharge capability (part EFLB33004S50).

A plastic tray is integrated into the airframe to serve as the battery mount. The battery is secured using a combination of self-adhesive hook-and-loop tape and hook-and-loop straps. I positioned the battery on the mount to achieve the suggested center of gravity location without adding any ballast.

My power system measurements indicated that it produces more than 950 watts for this 2.8-pound airplane. That equates to a power loading of more than 300 watts per pound. Most sport models do well at approximately 100 watts/pound. Although I’d flown numerous high-performance models prior to the Rare Bear, none had a power loading this high. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but there was no doubt that it would be exciting!

Flying the Rare Bear

The flight-ready Rare Bear can be easily disassembled to fit back into its box. This feature came in handy when I decided to bring the model along on a family trip to Florida. My initial flights were made at the Flagler Radio Aero Modelers RC Club field in Bunnell. I appreciate the hospitality and support of the club members during my visit.

Because the Rare Bear has no landing gear, it must be hand launched. A hand grip is molded into the bottom of the fuselage to make this task easier. Despite all of the power on tap, this airplane requires a good, strong throw into the wind. Anything less will result in a belly flop back onto the ground.

All of my launches so far have relied on someone else to throw the airplane. I doubt that I will ever deviate from that trend. Having a measurable headwind significantly eases the burden on the launcher, but the launch is never a casual event.

After the Rare Bear has reached flying speed, it becomes a more manageable airplane. It is predictable and easy to control—even if it is humming along briskly. The bright color scheme is easy to see and in-flight orientation has not been a problem for me.

The stated goal of the Rare Bear is speed and it definitely delivers. During one of my flights, someone remarked how fast and smooth the model was. He was surprised to learn that I was flying at only half throttle! Does the model hit the 100+ mph speeds claimed by E-flite? I don’t know … I haven’t measured it, but I have no reason to doubt it. This stubby little chunk of foam can boogie!

The Rare Bear does not get jittery or overly sensitive when flying at high speeds. Control response seems consistent throughout its normal speed range. The only difference that I’ve noticed so far is a tendency to wag its tail when carving through turns at high speeds. I can’t detect this behavior at moderate speeds.

I don’t know how much the AS3X system influences the flying qualities of this model because the system is always active. All I can say is that the Rare Bear is predictable at all flying speeds.

I’ve flown it on windless days and blustery days. To me, there is no difference in the pilot workload. I think that pilots who are comfortable with powerful four-channel sport aircraft can handle this model with no issues.

Although casual high-speed flying is its forte, the Rare Bear has aerobatic chops, too. It is capable of basic four-channel aerobatics and looks its best when performing these maneuvers smoothly. Rolls are axial and inverted flight requires a touch of down-elevator.

I find the high-rate control throws for elevator and aileron overly sensitive during normal flight. The suggested low-rate throws, however, are comfortable for me. I keep the rudder on high rates all of the time. This allows me to perform high-speed knife-edge passes down the length of the runway.

Some fliers may like to keep the hammer down and zoom around the pylons with this airplane. Go ahead if that’s your thing, but be prepared for short flight times. The manual suggests setting a three-minute flight timer, which is about right for the velocity junkies.

I find that I spend a lot of time flying the model at roughly half throttle. It moves along well at this power setting while leaving plenty of headroom for the occasional top-speed dash or tall loop. Using this power-management approach, I conservatively set my timer for six minutes and still land with reserve capacity in the battery.

For landing, I switch back to high-rate throws. This airplane retains energy well, so you have to plan ahead to get it to the ground. Under normal conditions, I’ll chop the throttle during the downwind leg to set up for a midfield arrival.

Conclusion

If all-out speed is your goal, there are definitely RC models that are faster than the E-flite Rare Bear. This airplane is noteworthy for combining impressive speed with aerobatic capability. You get both of these characteristics in a package that is easy to assemble and not overly challenging to fly.

Although the launch can be tricky at times, proper technique and a trusty helper can stack the odds in your favor. When the Rare Bear is in the air, it doesn’t take long to see how much fun you can have with a big motor and a little airplane.[dingbat]

Written by John Morgan
Build your own park-ready Buffalo
Free plans and build photos
Photos by the author
Featured in the January 2016 issue of Model Aviation.

Download Free Plans

Click here for full plans 36.59" x 24.45"
Click here for tiled plans 8.5" x 11"

Specifications

Model type: Semi-profile foam park flyer
Skill level: Intermediate
Construction: 1/4-inch or 6mm Depron foam with 1/8-inch plywood motor mount
Wingspan: 47 inches
Length: 33.5 inches
Weight: 34 ounces
Motor: RCTimer A3548/6 790 Kv outrunner
ESC: HobbyKing 40-amp
Battery: Turnigy 3S 2,200 mAh LiPo
Propeller: ParkZone Bf-109G three-blade; Du-Bro three-blade, 2-inch diameter spinner
Radio system: Turnigy OrangeRx receiver and Turnigy hexTronik HXT900 9-gram servos
Flight duration: 5 to 6 minutes

Background

The Brewster F2A Buffalo was an American fighter designed and built by the Brewster Aeronautical Corporation. It was one of the first monoplane fighters with an arrester hook and won a competition against Grumman’s F4F Wildcat in 1939 to become the Navy’s first monoplane fighter.

By the time the US entered World War II, the Buffalo had become obsolete because of its ever-increasing weight from various modifications without a corresponding increase in power. The F2A only saw combat with US units once at the Battle of Midway, where it was outclassed by Japan’s extraordinary Mitsubishi Zero. After the Battle of Midway, the Buffalo was retired from combat and reassigned to training units.

Several other countries ordered the export version of the Brewster F2A-2 including Britain, Belgium, Netherlands, and Finland. The Finns were the most successful with the Buffalos—flying them against early Soviet aircraft with excellent results.

I have always had an attraction to the Buffalo. There is just something in that tubby, rotund fuselage that pleases my eye. As in most of my scratch-builds, a three-view enlarged on my overhead projector produced the outlines that were needed to develop the plans.

It is a simple and fast build that ends with a lightweight and great-flying model. The model is built mostly from Depron foam, with a small amount of balsa and light plywood thrown in. Let’s get started!

Fuselage

Start by using spray adhesive to stick the parts to the Depron sheets, then cut out all of the parts. This speeds up the building process. Glue the 1/8-inch light plywood motor mount to the firewall and predrill the holes to mount the motor.

All of the parts are cut out, making a kit.

Not shown on the plans are cutouts in the formers for wiring and equipment installation. Place the two fuselage sides together and push holes through the leading edge (LE) and trailing edge (TE) locator points of the wing and stabilizer. This will ensure correct wing/stabilizer incidence later when they are mounted. While the two sides are together, mark former locations on each side.

On a flat building board, glue the flat sections of formers A, B, C, and D to one side, leaving the top tapered section for later and making sure that they are perpendicular to the fuselage side. Now align and glue the other side to these formers, making sure that all is square and true. Draw the two fuselage sides together at the rear and glue, again ensuring that they are square. (We don’t want any bananas here.)

At this point, install formers E and F. When all of that is dry, pull the tops together using masking tape and glue these tapered sections. Add top and bottom sheeting to complete the basic fuselage. Fill in the foam sections to form the cowl, sand the edges to a round shape, and the cowl is ready for covering.

Wing

Make sure you create a left and right panel. I like to build both at the same time to avoid mistakes.

For each panel, pin down the bottom sheeting on the building board and cut tapered washout shims for the TE. These shims are not shown on the plans and should be 1/4-inch tall and tapered to a point roughly 16 inches long.

Pin this washout shim under the TE, 1/4-inch tall at the wingtip, to ensure that approximately 3° of washout will be built into the wing panel. Glue the root and tip ribs, plus the LE cap strip to provide the gluing surface for the balsa LE and top sheeting. Add all of the Depron spars that taper from the root to the tip.

Stick a pin through the aileron corners to mark their outline so they can be located after the wing panel is closed up with the top sheeting. This will create a reference point for cutting them free later.

Build up the ailerons with the Depron and balsa ribs and the balsa spar sections that will be for hinging purposes. Use wood glue to attach the 1/2-inch balsa LE, and the wing is ready for top sheeting. I like to cut an oversized piece of Depron foam and then use Gorilla Glue to adhere it. Gorilla Glue works well because it dries slowly and expands to fill any voids.

The wing is ready for top sheeting.

Spread the glue on all of the top surfaces and weigh the top sheet down well to hold the sheeting in position until the glue cures. Old issues of Model Aviation distribute the weight well.

When dry, remove the panels from the board, shape the LE, and sand the edges. Add foam sections for the wingtips and carve and sand them to shape.

Locate the marks outlining the ailerons, cut them free, and prepare them for installation by shaping the LE and making the hinging slots. The wing panels and ailerons are now ready for covering.

Tail Feathers

The tail is as simple as it gets. Cut out and glue in the balsa inserts. Sand both vertical and horizontal stabilizers flush and smooth. Cut off the elevators and install the U wire joiner.
Round the edges and make hinging slots for the elevators. They are now ready for covering.

The completed tail feathers with balsa inserts are shown.

Covering

On smaller models, I prefer to use 3/4-ounce fiberglass cloth and Minwax water-based polyurethane. However, the model lends itself to iron-on covering should you choose to go that direction.

Fiberglass each surface, trim, and lightly sand when dry with 400-grit sandpaper. I apply two additional coats of polyurethane and sand between coats. At this point, the surfaces should be ready for paint.

Final Assembly

On the fuselage sides, take the wing panels and place the LE and TE along the wing datum line formed by the LE and TE holes you marked on the fuselage. Trace the airfoil outline on each side and then cut out these sections, taking the inside part of the former, too, so that the wing will slide through the completed fuselage.

Now block up each wing panel for the 21/2-inch dihedral and block sand the proper angle in each panel to ensure a close fit. Join the wing by gluing the two together and give the seam a narrow strip of fiberglass cloth on the top and bottom.

While this assembly is drying, cut out the horizontal stabilizer sections on the fuselage sides and check for fit. Trim to suit if necessary. Slide the wing into the fuselage, trimming as required, and make sure it is square and centered to the fuselage.

Glue the wing solid. Glue the elevator hinges in the elevators only. Slip that section into the stabilizer slot first and move it to the rear to allow the front stabilizer section to be inserted. After both are in, glue the hinges into the front stabilizer.

Square up the complete assembly, being careful to level the wing and measure the distance from the wingtips. When you are satisfied that it is straight, glue in along the seams. Add the vertical stabilizer and you should have a semi-profile Buffalo airframe.

Equipment Installation

The prototype used an E-flite Park 480 motor, but I chose an RCTimer A 3548/6 790 Kv motor for this version to give it a more spritely performance. HXT-900 9-gram servos were used for both ailerons and elevator. I installed the elevator servo in the rear of the fuselage to allow a short pushrod. A Turnigy OrangeRx receiver was used and mounted in the central bay under the wing, along with a 40-amp ESC.

When proper battery location was established for the correct CG, a light plywood battery box was glued in the forward open bay behind the firewall. A ParkZone Bf-109G three-blade propeller, a Du-Bro 2-inch spinner, and a 3S 2,200 LiPo battery work well with this power system.

I added 1/8-inch balsa doublers inside the open bay under the wing, along with a partial light plywood former in the middle of that opening to strengthen the area for hand launching.

The completed model with all of its equipment installed.

Details and Finishing

I decided to finish this model as the British export-version B-339E that was flown by No. 242 Squadron Royal Air Force in Malaya in 1941. Only a few details were added, including exhausts and the distinctive exposed wheels along the fuselage sides.

The exhausts are simply aluminum tubing painted a rusty exhaust color. The wheels were made by chucking a foam cylinder in my Dremel tool and using sandpaper to shape them. These details were added after the painting was completed.

I use common household acrylic latex enamel to paint my models. Thinning it roughly 20% with Windex gives a nice, even flow from the airbrush.

Acrylic latex enamel, thinned approximately 20% with Windex, was sprayed onto the aircraft with an airbrush.

The bottom of the model is painted. The fuselage is open on the bottom to provide easy access to the flight battery.

I started by painting the bottom color first, followed by the upper camouflage surfaces. After the camouflage base colors were on, I went back over the edges to define them, but leave a soft edge. The canopy and rear fuselage stripe were then masked off and sprayed.

After a day’s worth of drying, the whole airplane was rubbed down with 1,000-grit sandpaper to remove any overspray and leave a smooth surface for applying decals. Callie Graphics supplied the excellent decals.

With the decals applied, it was time to give the model a few simple panel lines. These were applied using a 2B pencil and a plastic straightedge. When they were done, it was back to the airbrush. I wanted to give the panel lines an accent to further define them.

Using masking tape along the lines and a light finger on the trigger, a thin layer of paint was spread along the lines—leaving merely a little color. This was done on every line including the simulated rib lines on the control surfaces.

The author used tape along panel lines to apply accent color.

I like to use contrasting colors on the lines. On the green camouflage surfaces, for instance, I use brown to accent. I do the reverse on the brown camouflage with green. Brown was also used on the bottom lines. This gives a nice detail that tends to define the lines well.

With the panel lines complete, it was time for a clear protective coat. Krylon makes excellent clear coats and I prefer the satin finish in most cases. The model was given two light coats to protect the finish. Painting the propeller and spinner creates an overall good look to the model. With the painting complete, it was time to recheck the balance and then go flying!

Flying

Tony Accurso took the B-339E on its maiden flight. The build was simple and easy, and flying the model is even easier. The control throws were set up with dual rates, using roughly 3/8 inch up and down on both elevator and ailerons for low rates, and double that for high. I like to start there and then adjust the control throws after trimming out the model.

Using approximately 60-70% power and a little up-elevator trim, merely a firm straight-ahead launch is needed and the Buffalo climbs straight out. After a decent height is reached, reduce power to roughly half and trim the surfaces for hands-off flight.

It doesn’t take long to enjoy this model. The little Brewster will do any aerobatics that aileron/elevator-equipped aircraft are capable of and do them well. Check the stall. If this is done by slowly reducing power and pulling up-elevator, it will finally drop its nose straight ahead and start flying again. In a slight headwind, it will nearly hover in this condition.

Landings are as easy as it gets—either dead-stick and glide in or use a little power with the nose elevated to pinpoint your landing.

I hope you will try your hand at building and flying this little Buffalo and enjoy it as much as I have.

Additional Photos

Sources:

Horizon Hobby
(800) 338-4639
www.parkzone.com

HobbyKing
www.hobbyking.com

RCTimer
www.rctimer.com

MA Construction Series Podcast: Wrapping it up
We interview Paul Kohlmann, author of one of Model Aviation's most extensive construction series.

This podcast hasn't happened yet!

Listen live on January 27 from 3 p.m. - 4 p.m. EST and ask your questions in our chatroom. After the live podcast, we'll post the complete interview here.

Written by Jay Smith
Military aircraft take to the skies for a good cause
Coverage of the annual warbird event in Golden CO
Photos by the author and Lee Jay Fingersh
As seen in the January 2015 issue of Model Aviation.

The AAM club field, where Warbirds Over The Rockies was held, provided a beautiful backdrop to enjoy warbirds from many eras of aviation.

Getting together with likeminded individuals at an event and flying our aircraft is a blast, especially when the enjoyment of our hobby is also helping benefit the community. Such is the case with Warbirds Over The Rockies, in a partnership with Mental Health America of Colorado that has lasted the past five years.

Mental Health America was founded in 1909 and is a community-based nonprofit organization, dedicated to helping all Americans achieve wellness by living mentally healthier lives. The Arvada Associated Modelers (AAM) club that hosted the event, has a strong bond with its local community as represented by a large spectator presence and the attendance of representatives from local government.

In its 12th year, the Warbirds Over The Rockies was held on September 11-13, 2015, just outside of Golden, Colorado. Along with the beautiful flying field and picturesque mountain backdrop, Golden is also the home of Coors Brewing Company and Spyderco cutlery company.

The flying site, with its 50 x 750-foot concrete runway, was perfect for hosting all types of military aircraft brought by approximately 100 pilots who came from within the US as well as Australia, Italy, Brazil, Canada, and England.

This DA-100-powered Meister Zero belonging to Brian Young provided many smoke-on passes during the air show.

Greg Thomas put in several flights on his electric-powered Black Horse Models Westland Wyvern. It flies on a 12s battery pack with a Turnigy Rotomax 50 motor.

The German twin-engine Engel Modellbau Dornier Do 335 was one of the more unusual models at the event. It has a 104-inch wingspan and is powered by a 3W-80 and G45. Photo by Lee Jay Fingersh.

This Nieuport 28 was one of a handful of World War I models in attendance. Each day, the WW I models started the air show.

While event staff handled everything from parking to pilot registration and safety, Sam Wright, assisted by Dave Platt, did an excellent job in sharing information on aircraft, military history, and updates to the daily schedule for pilots and spectators.

Vendor row covered the needs of warbird and aviation fans alike, with companies including Warbird Colors, Warbird Pilots, E-Power, HobbyTown USA, and Zurich Extreme Glare Sunglasses.

A popular destination for families in attendance was the make-and-take area that was stocked with supplies allowing youngsters to build and color foam gliders. AMA District IX had a booth next door to the make-and-take area, where Vice President (VP) Jim Tiller and Associate Vice President (AVP) Rick McCaskill could interact with spectators and help trim the multitude of newly built gliders being flown.

Who knows where this exposure to aviation might lead for those in attendance.

Jim Tiller (facing camera), AMA District IX VP, and Rick McCaskill, AMA District IX AVP, were on hand to support the AMA, help with the make-and-take, and speak with attendees.

The AAM club hosted the event and sponsored a well-stocked make-and-take area that allowed kids to build and color foam gliders.

Air Show With a Blast

Brian and Bonnie O’Meara and everyone involved certainly know how to conduct an air show that is as exciting for the spectators as it is for the pilots. During the three-day event, seven full-scale aircraft, including a P-51, T-33, T-28, C-45, Stearman, and Provost jet, provided FAA-approved flybys. The pilots did an excellent job of providing banked passes to allow the best view of the aircraft—some made photo passes with smoke on.

The RC aircraft show loosely follows the history of military aviation, starting with World War I aircraft, then on to Golden Age aircraft, World War II, and jets.

Beyond seeing some beautiful aircraft, such as Jim Hammond’s scratch-built Spitfire and Brian’s B-26 Maurader Flak Bait, pyrotechnics were used to simulate flak, strafing runs, and some large explosions! Although I have never attended a Byron Originals Airshow, several commented that Warbirds Over The Rockies provided a similar experience.

I had the good fortune to meet Robert Elson, who attended with the Commemorative Air Force. Robert was a transport pilot during World War II and he brought along photos of himself during his military service, including all of the aircraft that he flew.

I also met AMA and Arvada Associated Modelers member, Lanny Hansen, who is a Vietnam veteran. He was also gracious enough to share some photos with me that were taken during his service in Vietnam, many of which included the Huey helicopters that he flew. It is always a pleasure to meet fellow veterans and share stories of our time in the service.

During the three-day event, seven full-scale aircraft, including a P-51, T-33, T-28, C-45, a Stearman, and a Provost jet, provided FAA-approved flybys.

Brian O’Meara’s Flak Bait Martin B-26 Marauder was expertly piloted by Dino DiGiorgio. The model has an incredible level of detail and is seen here with the bomb bay doors open and ready to drop its payload.

Spectators of all ages attended the daily air show that included RC aircraft as well as flybys by some full-scale aircraft.

Awards Banquet and Auction

Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Museum hosted the Saturday night banquet and auction. Attendees were provided the opportunity to explore the museum and mingle with guests before and after the meal. Attendees were also offered a chance to sit in the cockpits of some of the museum’s aircraft, which was too good of an opportunity to pass up.

The awards presented to the pilots were handmade by Tighe O’Meara and featured aircraft and shell casings. After several happy pilots accepted their awards, it was time for the auction.

More than 65 donated items were auctioned off by Sam Wright and Brian O’Meara. From aircraft and gear to an amazing painting, attendees didn’t hold back, knowing that all of the money raised would go to Mental Health America.

I found several items that were quite tempting, and the only thing holding me back was realizing anything I purchased needed to fit in my suitcase for the flight home. I did make a mental note that the next time I attended, I should drive a large vehicle!

When it was over, approximately $25,000 was raised and everyone had smiles on their faces as they left the museum—especially the people toting awards and awesome items that they purchased at auction.

Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Museum hosted the Saturday night banquet and auction. Sam Wright (L), assisted by Brian O’Meara and Tiffany Marie, auctioned more than 65 donated items for charity.

There’s Always Next Year

The 2015 event was my first time attending Warbirds Over The Rockies, but it won’t be my last. If you’re going to Colorado for the first time as I did, I recommend visiting the Rocky Mountain State Park, with 415 square miles of spectacular mountains. It is located close enough to the flying field for a day trip.

If you enjoy full-scale and RC warbirds and find yourself in Colorado next September, you should consider flying at, or at least attending, Warbirds Over The Rockies. The event provides a friendly, welcoming atmosphere, and raises money for a great cause.

Brian and Bonnie O’Meara and the AAM have done a great job in partnering with their community and hosting an event that draws a large number of spectators and exposes them to some of what this great hobby has to offer!
—Jay Smith
jays@modelaircraft.org

Additional Photos

SOURCES:

Warbirds Over The Rockies
www.warbirdsovertherockies.com

Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Museum
(303) 360-5360
www.wingsmuseum.org

Mental Health America of Colorado
jmonteith@mhacolorado.org
www.mhacolorado.org

Written by Laddie Mikulasko
Build and Fly the 1930s Airliner
Build article and additional photos
Photos by the author
As seen in the January 2015 issue of Model Aviation.



The Fokker name was in the forefront of early aviation. Anthony Fokker, of Dutch nationality, built his first airplane in 1910, called Spin (Spider). The design was good enough to be used by the German military in flight training school.

Anthony established his aircraft company and concentrated on producing airplanes for the German army. Following the end of World War I, Germany was prohibited from building aircraft, so Fokker moved the production to the Netherlands. In a short period of time, it became the largest aircraft company in the world by concentrating on producing transportation aircraft.

In 1919, the company started with the F.II high-wing, single-engine airplane followed shortly after with the most successful in the series of three-engine aircraft: the F.VII. Many airlines in Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia, Australia, and the US flew three-engine Fokkers.

Some Fokker airplanes participated in notable flights such as the one on May 9, 1926, with Richard E. Byrd in a Fokker F.VII that flew over the North Pole. In 1928, Amelia Earhart became the first woman to fly across the Atlantic, but only as a passenger in a three-engine Fokker F.VIIb/3m.

All versions of the F.VII had a fabric-covered fuselage and the tail surfaces. The wing, with its thick airfoil, was plywood covered.

Approximately 10 years ago, I was looking to build a three-engine scale model. In my collection of drawings, I found three-views for the full-scale Fokker F.XVIII in the colors of the Czechoslovakian airlines. When I built this model, I did not have brushless motors, so I used 2:1 geared, brushed Speed 400 motors, spinning 9 x 6 AP park flyer propellers.

I have since replaced the Speed 400 motors with brushless motors and three-speed controllers. At full power, each motor draws 10 amps with the same APC 9 x 6 propellers. One 3S 5,000 mAh LiPo battery gives me more than 15 minutes of leisurely flying. The model’s low wing loading gives it docile flight characteristics. All three motors can be 1,000 Kv size with a 28mm outside diameter.

The author’s Fokker F-XVIII replicates the colors of the Czechoslovakian airlines.

The Wing

The wing is built in two halves. Cut out all of the ribs and dihedral pieces (5, 18, 19, and 20). Over the plans, pin the bottom spars (1 and 2) to the building board. The bottom of the spars (1 and 2) are tapered from the F1 rib to the centerline of the wing. Position and glue all of the ribs to the spars (1 and 2). Try to keep the ribs square with the building board.

Glue the top spars (3 and 4) to the ribs. Insert and glue the dihedral piece (5) to the ribs W1 to W5. Glue the leading edge (LE) sub-spar (10) to the ribs. Sand the edges so that they follow the contours of the ribs.

Remove the wing from the building board. Pin the bottom trailing edge (TE) sheet (8) and the LE sheet (7) to the building board. Smear glue on the sheets where the ribs and the spar (1) and sub-spar (10) touch the ribs. Position the wing correctly on top of these sheets and pin it to the building board. While the glue is wet, bend the bottom LE sheeting (7) upward until it touches the sub-spar. Secure the sheeting in that position until the glue dries. Glue on the top TE sheet (9).

In the front, glue on the top LE sheeting (6). Glue the LE spar (11) to the wing. At this time, glue all of the top capstrips to the ribs. Remove the wing and glue the wingtip sheet between the LE and TE sheets. Glue the plywood plates (12 and 13) to ribs W4 and W5. Glue the bottom sheeting between ribs W4 and W5 and between ribs W7 and W8. Then glue on all of the bottom capstrips.

Mark the outline of the aileron and cut it out from the wing. Glue the hinge spar (15) to the wing. Glue the plywood plate (17) to the bottom aileron sheeting. Glue the LE sheet (16) to the aileron and cap the ends. Pull the extension wire for the aileron servo between ribs W1 and W8. The motor wires will be pulled when the nacelles are being installed. Now build the other half of the wing to the same stage and sand both halves of the wing.

Position the wing halves so the spars (1 and 2) from each half are touching. Place and secure the dihedral shims under rib W16. Now, glue the dihedral braces (19) to rib W1 and to the braces (5). Glue the brace (18) to rib W1 and (20) to rib W1 and spars (2 and 4).

Glue the LE spars (10 and 11) to rib W1. Glue in the hardwood dowel to the LE and brace (18 and 19). Glue the hardwood blocks (21) to rib W1. In the middle of the wing, glue the bottom and the top sheeting to rib W1. Pull the ends of the motor wires out of the wing.

The wing has the completed aileron.

The Nacelles

The nacelles are built in two halves—top and bottom. Accurately pin the top halves of formers N1, N2, N3, N4, N5 and balsa block (25) to the building board, making sure that they are square with the building board. Glue on sheeting (22, 23, and 24) to the formers. Glue the cone-shaped balsa block (26) to former N5.

Make the holes for the nacelle’s struts in the sheeting. Build the bottom half the same way. Temporarily glue both halves to each other by smearing a small amount of glue on the corners of N1 and at the tip of the cone (26). When the glue dries, sand the nacelle. After it is sanded, separate the top from the bottom.

Build the second nacelle the same way. Before the nacelles can be installed, cut out two parts of the nacelles’ alignment jig out of cardboard or scrap balsa. From 1/8-inch brass tubing, cut out three struts (27) and three struts (28). Pin the alignment jig to the wing. Pin the top half of the nacelles to the jig. Slide the brass struts (28) into the slots in formers N2 and N3 and balsa block (25).

When you are satisfied with alignment, epoxy the struts to the nacelle only. When the epoxy is cured, pull three motor wires into the struts (27 and 28). Glue the bottom half of the nacelle to the top half. Put the nacelles aside until you cover the wing.

Dummy Engines

Make three rings for dummy engines. From 1/32-inch plywood, cut strips the width of the rings. From scrap balsa, cut out a disc that is the same size as the inside diameter of the ring. Cover the ring with clear plastic. Smear epoxy on the strip and wrap it around the disc three times. After the epoxy has cured, remove it from the disc and make two other rings. Sand the outside of the rings to the airfoil’s shape.

The engine’s crankcase can be made by vacuum-forming plastic over a mold or from a balsa block. Glue the rings and the crankcase to the plywood ring at the back. Each dummy cylinder head can be made from a balsa dowel or something more scalelike. It is up to the builder. Each completed dummy engine can be held to the firewall with two magnets and a couple of guide pins.

A view of the dummy engine.

Tail Surfaces

Cut out the fin, rudder (56), stabilizer, and elevator surfaces (62). Mark the location of the ribs on both sides of the tail surfaces. Pin the surfaces to the building board. Glue the LE (67) and hinge spar (63) to the stabilizer sheet. Glue the blank ribs between the LE spar and hinge spar.

With a 10-inch sanding block, sand the airfoil into the first inch of the surface. Flip the stabilizer surface and glue the rib blanks to this side as was done on the other side. Sand the LE as was done on the other side.

On the stabilizer, remove 1/16 inch of balsa from the first ribs. Glue the balsa sheet (68) to them. Build the remaining tail surfaces in a similar fashion.

The Fuselage

Cut out the fuselage sides (34) and pin them to the building board. Make sure that the other fuselage side is flipped so you are building the left and right sides of the fuselage. Glue the top and bottom longerons (33) to the outside edge of the fuselage sides. (The drawing for former F3 clearly shows how the longerons are glued to the fuselage sides.)

Pin the longerons to the building board all the way to the tail. Glue in all of the uprights (35) between the longerons. In the rear, glue the sheet (49) to the longerons and the uprights. Glue all of the stringers (40) to the fuselage side, then glue in the outside balsa doubler (51) below the wing saddle.

Flip the sides over and glue on the top plywood doubler (36) and the bottom doubler (37) on the inside. Epoxy the hardwood block (52) to the top doubler (36) in the location shown on the plans. Pin formers F6, F7, F8, and F9 so they are standing upright. Make sure that they are and remain square with the building board.

Glue the fuselage sides to these formers, then glue front formers F3, F4, and F5 to the fuselage sides. Use squares to keep the formers vertically and horizontally square. In the rear, glue in the crossmembers (30), making sure that all remains square. Glue in the battery floor (48) and the two hardwood blocks (47) to the fuselage to support the landing gear.

Glue the top sheeting (42) to formers F3 and F4. Glue the cockpit ceiling (42) to former F6. Between this ceiling and the top sheeting (42), epoxy in the cockpit window frames. Glue a small former to the top of the cockpit and then attach the cockpit roof sheeting. Glue top formers F10 and F11 to former F9 at the angle shown.

Next, glue formers F12 to F16 to the crossmembers. Glue the stringers (40) to the formers. Behind former F16, glue on the balsa sheet (51). To finish installing the top stringers, the wing has to be bolted to the fuselage. Now pin and glue the second set of formers F10 and F11 to the wing. Glue the remaining stringer to formers F10 and F11 and the wing. Remove the wing.

Cut out the plywood tail wheel bracket (53). Glue 1/16-inch inside-diameter tubing (54) to it and secure the tubing to the bracket with the strip of fiberglass. Glue this bracket to the fuselage bottom and the hinge spar. Bend 1/16-inch piano wire (55) to shape as shown on the drawing to hold the tail wheel.

Slide in the U-shaped piano wire joiner to connect the two elevator surfaces before installing the stabilizer. Slide the stabilizer into the opening in the fuselage sheet (49) and glue it in place. Glue the fin to the fuselage.

The fuselage is shown with all of the stringers in place.

Main Landing Gear

Bend 1/8-inch piano wire to shape, as shown on sheet 2 of the plans. Join the two wires by wrapping the joint with the copper wire and soldering them to each other. On the dotted lines in the vice, bend them on an angle as shown on the front view. The same view shows what angle to bend the wheel axel.

The vertical telescopic legs are made from two streamline tubes. The top (30) is glued to the bottom of the nacelle and the bottom (31) freely rotates on the axel. When installing the wing on the finished model, slide the bottom tubing into the top one.

Covering and Finishing

I used iron-on material to finish the model. First, cover the bottom of the wing and the nacelles, then pull the motor wires through the holes in the plywood plates (12) and (13) into the wing. Place the wing on its back and secure the nacelle alignment jig to the wing.

Epoxy the nacelle struts to the wing. Finish pulling the motor wires all the way to the center of the wing between rib W1, and finish covering the wing.

Cover the fuselage and tail surfaces. When finished covering, mount the motors and connect them to the speed controllers. On two speed controllers, remove the red wire from the plug. Only one ESC needs the red wire to power the receiver. Install the servos and the landing gear. Install the motor battery on the battery floor so that the model balances on the center of gravity spot shown on the drawing. That completes the Fokker.

There’s plenty of room inside the fuselage for the radio gear and battery.

Flying

There isn’t much to say about flying this model. First, test all of the controls and perform a range test. Take off into the wind by applying power and letting the model lift off on its own. With its low wing loading, the model is a gentle flier. It is next to impossible to spin it.

It’s best to fly the Fokker at a relaxing speed to give it a scalelike appearance. Landings are a non-event. Simply reduce power and let the model sink to the ground. When it is roughly a foot above the ground, feed a little up-elevator to bring the nose up and touch the ground. You can see some of its flying characteristics in the flight video listed in the “Sources” section. Good luck.
—Laddie Mikulasko
lmikulasko@cogeco.ca

Additional Photos

Order Plans

SOURCES:

Flight video
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPj2OGVEKqc

Castle Creations
(913) 390-6939
www.castlecreations.com

APC Propellers
(530) 661-0399
www.apcprop.com
AXI
www.modelmotors.cz

AMA Plans Service
(800) 435-9262, ext. 507
www.modelaircraft.org/plans